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<section class="pg-boilerplate pgheader" id="pg-header" lang="en"><h2 id="pg-header-heading" title="">The Project Gutenberg eBook of <span lang="en" id="pg-title-no-subtitle">A Journey to the Centre of the Earth</span></h2>
    
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<div class="container" id="pg-machine-header"><p><strong>Title</strong>: A Journey to the Centre of the Earth</p>
<div id="pg-header-authlist">
<p><strong>Author</strong>: Jules Verne</p>
</div>
<p><strong>Release date</strong>: July 18, 2006 [eBook #18857]<br/>
                Most recently updated: December 27, 2012</p>

<p><strong>Language</strong>: English</p>

<p><strong>Original publication</strong>: Griffith and Farran,, 1871</p>

<p><strong>Credits</strong>: Produced by Norm Wolcott</p>

</div><div id="pg-start-separator">
<span>*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK A JOURNEY TO THE CENTRE OF THE EARTH ***</span>
</div></section><pre/>
<h1 id="pgepubid00000">A JOURNEY TO THE CENTRE OF THE EARTH</h1>
<h2>By Jules Verne</h2>
<p class="normal"><b>[ Redactor's Note:</b> <i>Journey to the Centre of the Earth</i>
is number <b>V002</b> in the Taves and Michaluk numbering of the works of
Jules Verne. First published in England by Griffith and Farran, 1871, this edition is not
a translation at all but a complete re-write of the novel, with portions
added and omitted, and names changed. The
most reprinted version, it is entered into Project Gutenberg for reference
purposes only. A better translation is <i>A Journey into the Interior of the
Earth</i> translated by Rev. F. A. Malleson, also available on Project
Gutenberg.<b>]</b></p>
<h2 id="pgepubid00001">Table of Contents</h2>
<p class="normal">
<a href="1187296021194714223_18857-h-0.htm.xhtml#CHAPTER_1" class="pginternal"><b>CHAPTER 1</b></a>  MY UNCLE MAKES A GREAT DISCOVERY<br/>
<a href="1187296021194714223_18857-h-0.htm.xhtml#CHAPTER_2" class="pginternal"><b>CHAPTER 2</b></a>  THE MYSTERIOUS PARCHMENT<br/>
<a href="1187296021194714223_18857-h-0.htm.xhtml#CHAPTER_3" class="pginternal"><b>CHAPTER 3</b></a>  AN ASTOUNDING DISCOVERY<br/>
<a href="1187296021194714223_18857-h-0.htm.xhtml#CHAPTER_4" class="pginternal"><b>CHAPTER 4</b></a>  WE START ON THE JOURNEY<br/>
<a href="1187296021194714223_18857-h-0.htm.xhtml#CHAPTER_5" class="pginternal"><b>CHAPTER 5</b></a>  FIRST LESSONS IN CLIMBING<br/>
<a href="1187296021194714223_18857-h-0.htm.xhtml#CHAPTER_6" class="pginternal"><b>CHAPTER 6</b></a>  OUR VOYAGE TO ICELAND<br/>
<a href="1187296021194714223_18857-h-0.htm.xhtml#CHAPTER_7" class="pginternal"><b>CHAPTER 7</b></a>  CONVERSATION AND DISCOVERY<br/>
<a href="1187296021194714223_18857-h-0.htm.xhtml#CHAPTER_8" class="pginternal"><b>CHAPTER 8</b></a>  THE EIDER-DOWN HUNTER—OFF AT LAST<br/>
<a href="1187296021194714223_18857-h-0.htm.xhtml#CHAPTER_9" class="pginternal"><b>CHAPTER 9</b></a>  OUR START—WE MEET WITH ADVENTURES BY THE WAY<br/>
<a href="1187296021194714223_18857-h-0.htm.xhtml#CHAPTER_10" class="pginternal"><b>CHAPTER 10</b></a>  TRAVELING IN ICELAND<br/>
<a href="1187296021194714223_18857-h-0.htm.xhtml#CHAPTER_11" class="pginternal"><b>CHAPTER 11</b></a>  WE REACH MOUNT SNEFFELS—THE "REYKIR"<br/>
<a href="1187296021194714223_18857-h-0.htm.xhtml#CHAPTER_12" class="pginternal"><b>CHAPTER 12</b></a>  THE ASCENT OF MOUNT SNEFFELS<br/>
<a href="1187296021194714223_18857-h-0.htm.xhtml#CHAPTER_13" class="pginternal"><b>CHAPTER 13</b></a>  THE SHADOW OF SCARTARIS<br/>
<a href="1187296021194714223_18857-h-1.htm.xhtml#CHAPTER_14" class="pginternal"><b>CHAPTER 14</b></a>  THE REAL JOURNEY COMMENCES<br/>
<a href="1187296021194714223_18857-h-1.htm.xhtml#CHAPTER_15" class="pginternal"><b>CHAPTER 15</b></a>  WE CONTINUE OUR DESCENT<br/>
<a href="1187296021194714223_18857-h-1.htm.xhtml#CHAPTER_16" class="pginternal"><b>CHAPTER 16</b></a>  THE EASTERN TUNNEL<br/>
<a href="1187296021194714223_18857-h-1.htm.xhtml#CHAPTER_17" class="pginternal"><b>CHAPTER 17</b></a>  DEEPER AND DEEPER—THE COAL MINE<br/>
<a href="1187296021194714223_18857-h-1.htm.xhtml#CHAPTER_18" class="pginternal"><b>CHAPTER 18</b></a>  THE WRONG ROAD!<br/>
<a href="1187296021194714223_18857-h-1.htm.xhtml#CHAPTER_19" class="pginternal"><b>CHAPTER 19</b></a>  THE WESTERN GALLERY—A NEW ROUTE<br/>
<a href="1187296021194714223_18857-h-1.htm.xhtml#CHAPTER_20" class="pginternal"><b>CHAPTER 20</b></a>  WATER, WHERE IS IT? A BITTER DISAPPOINTMENT<br/>
<a href="1187296021194714223_18857-h-1.htm.xhtml#CHAPTER_21" class="pginternal"><b>CHAPTER 21</b></a>  UNDER THE OCEAN<br/>
<a href="1187296021194714223_18857-h-1.htm.xhtml#CHAPTER_22" class="pginternal"><b>CHAPTER 22</b></a>  SUNDAY BELOW GROUND<br/>
<a href="1187296021194714223_18857-h-1.htm.xhtml#CHAPTER_23" class="pginternal"><b>CHAPTER 23</b></a>  ALONE<br/>
<a href="1187296021194714223_18857-h-1.htm.xhtml#CHAPTER_24" class="pginternal"><b>CHAPTER 24</b></a>  LOST!<br/>
<a href="1187296021194714223_18857-h-1.htm.xhtml#CHAPTER_25" class="pginternal"><b>CHAPTER 25</b></a>  THE WHISPERING GALLERY<br/>
<a href="1187296021194714223_18857-h-1.htm.xhtml#CHAPTER_26" class="pginternal"><b>CHAPTER 26</b></a>  A RAPID RECOVERY<br/>
<a href="1187296021194714223_18857-h-1.htm.xhtml#CHAPTER_27" class="pginternal"><b>CHAPTER 27</b></a>  THE CENTRAL SEA<br/>
<a href="1187296021194714223_18857-h-2.htm.xhtml#CHAPTER_28" class="pginternal"><b>CHAPTER 28</b></a>  LAUNCHING THE RAFT<br/>
<a href="1187296021194714223_18857-h-2.htm.xhtml#CHAPTER_29" class="pginternal"><b>CHAPTER 29</b></a>  ON THE WATERS—A RAFT VOYAGE<br/>
<a href="1187296021194714223_18857-h-2.htm.xhtml#CHAPTER_30" class="pginternal"><b>CHAPTER 30</b></a>  TERRIFIC SAURIAN COMBAT<br/>
<a href="1187296021194714223_18857-h-2.htm.xhtml#CHAPTER_31" class="pginternal"><b>CHAPTER 31</b></a>  THE SEA MONSTER<br/>
<a href="1187296021194714223_18857-h-2.htm.xhtml#CHAPTER_32" class="pginternal"><b>CHAPTER 32</b></a>  THE BATTLE OF THE ELEMENTS<br/>
<a href="1187296021194714223_18857-h-2.htm.xhtml#CHAPTER_33" class="pginternal"><b>CHAPTER 33</b></a>  OUR ROUTE REVERSED<br/>
<a href="1187296021194714223_18857-h-2.htm.xhtml#CHAPTER_34" class="pginternal"><b>CHAPTER 34</b></a>  A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY<br/>
<a href="1187296021194714223_18857-h-2.htm.xhtml#CHAPTER_35" class="pginternal"><b>CHAPTER 35</b></a>  DISCOVERY UPON DISCOVERY<br/>
<a href="1187296021194714223_18857-h-2.htm.xhtml#CHAPTER_36" class="pginternal"><b>CHAPTER 36</b></a>  WHAT IS IT?<br/>
<a href="1187296021194714223_18857-h-2.htm.xhtml#CHAPTER_37" class="pginternal"><b>CHAPTER 37</b></a>  THE MYSTERIOUS DAGGER<br/>
<a href="1187296021194714223_18857-h-3.htm.xhtml#CHAPTER_38" class="pginternal"><b>CHAPTER 38</b></a>  NO OUTLET—BLASTING THE ROCK<br/>
<a href="1187296021194714223_18857-h-3.htm.xhtml#CHAPTER_39" class="pginternal"><b>CHAPTER 39</b></a>  THE EXPLOSION AND ITS RESULTS<br/>
<a href="1187296021194714223_18857-h-3.htm.xhtml#CHAPTER_40" class="pginternal"><b>CHAPTER 40</b></a>  THE APE GIGANS<br/>
<a href="1187296021194714223_18857-h-3.htm.xhtml#CHAPTER_41" class="pginternal"><b>CHAPTER 41</b></a>  HUNGER<br/>
<a href="1187296021194714223_18857-h-3.htm.xhtml#CHAPTER_42" class="pginternal"><b>CHAPTER 42</b></a>  THE VOLCANIC SHAFT<br/>
<a href="1187296021194714223_18857-h-3.htm.xhtml#CHAPTER_43" class="pginternal"><b>CHAPTER 43</b></a>  DAYLIGHT AT LAST<br/>
<a href="1187296021194714223_18857-h-3.htm.xhtml#CHAPTER_44" class="pginternal"><b>CHAPTER 44</b></a>  THE JOURNEY ENDED<br/>
</p>
<hr style="width: 65%;"/>
<h2 id="pgepubid00002"><a id="CHAPTER_1"/>CHAPTER 1</h2>
<h4 id="pgepubid00003">MY UNCLE MAKES A GREAT DISCOVERY</h4>
<p>Looking back to all that has occurred to me since that eventful day, I
am scarcely able to believe in the reality of my adventures. They were
truly so wonderful that even now I am bewildered when I think of them.</p>
<p>My uncle was a German, having married my mother's sister, an
Englishwoman. Being very much attached to his fatherless nephew, he
invited me to study under him in his home in the fatherland. This home
was in a large town, and my uncle a professor of philosophy, chemistry,
geology, mineralogy, and many other ologies.</p>
<p>One day, after passing some hours in the laboratory—my uncle being
absent at the time—I suddenly felt the necessity of renovating the
tissues—<i>i.e.</i>, I was hungry, and was about to rouse up our old French
cook, when my uncle, Professor Von Hardwigg, suddenly opened the street
door, and came rushing upstairs.</p>
<p>Now Professor Hardwigg, my worthy uncle, is by no means a bad sort of
man; he is, however, choleric and original. To bear with him means to
obey; and scarcely had his heavy feet resounded within our joint
domicile than he shouted for me to attend upon him.</p>
<p>"Harry—Harry—Harry—"</p>
<p>I hastened to obey, but before I could reach his room, jumping three
steps at a time, he was stamping his right foot upon the landing.</p>
<p>"Harry!" he cried, in a frantic tone, "are you coming up?"</p>
<p>Now to tell the truth, at that moment I was far more interested in the
question as to what was to constitute our dinner than in any problem of
science; to me soup was more interesting than soda, an omelette more
tempting than arithmetic, and an artichoke of ten times more value than
any amount of asbestos.</p>
<p>But my uncle was not a man to be kept waiting; so adjourning therefore
all minor questions, I presented myself before him.</p>
<p>He was a very learned man. Now most persons in this category supply
themselves with information, as peddlers do with goods, for the benefit
of others, and lay up stores in order to diffuse them abroad for the
benefit of society in general. Not so my excellent uncle, Professor
Hardwigg; he studied, he consumed the midnight oil, he pored over heavy
tomes, and digested huge quartos and folios in order to keep the
knowledge acquired to himself.</p>
<p>There was a reason, and it may be regarded as a good one, why my uncle
objected to display his learning more than was absolutely necessary: he
stammered; and when intent upon explaining the phenomena of the heavens,
was apt to find himself at fault, and allude in such a vague way to sun,
moon, and stars that few were able to comprehend his meaning. To tell
the honest truth, when the right word would not come, it was generally
replaced by a very powerful adjective.</p>
<p>In connection with the sciences there are many almost unpronounceable
names—names very much resembling those of Welsh villages; and my uncle
being very fond of using them, his habit of stammering was not thereby
improved. In fact, there were periods in his discourse when he would
finally give up and swallow his discomfiture—in a glass of water.</p>
<p>As I said, my uncle, Professor Hardwigg, was a very learned man; and I
now add a most kind relative. I was bound to him by the double ties of
affection and interest. I took deep interest in all his doings, and
hoped some day to be almost as learned myself. It was a rare thing for
me to be absent from his lectures. Like him, I preferred mineralogy to
all the other sciences. My anxiety was to gain real <i>knowledge of the
earth</i>. Geology and mineralogy were to us the sole objects of life, and
in connection with these studies many a fair specimen of stone, chalk,
or metal did we break with our hammers.</p>
<p>Steel rods, loadstones, glass pipes, and bottles of various acids were
oftener before us than our meals. My uncle Hardwigg was once known to
classify six hundred different geological specimens by their weight,
hardness, fusibility, sound, taste, and smell.</p>
<p>He corresponded with all the great, learned, and scientific men of the
age. I was, therefore, in constant communication with, at all events the
letters of, Sir Humphry Davy, Captain Franklin, and other great men.</p>
<p>But before I state the subject on which my uncle wished to confer with
me, I must say a word about his personal appearance. Alas! my readers
will see a very different portrait of him at a future time, after he has
gone through the fearful adventures yet to be related.</p>
<p>My uncle was fifty years old; tall, thin, and wiry. Large spectacles
hid, to a certain extent, his vast, round, and goggle eyes, while his
nose was irreverently compared to a thin file. So much indeed did it
resemble that useful article, that a compass was said in his presence to
have made considerable N (Nasal) deviation.</p>
<p>The truth being told, however, the only article really attracted to my
uncle's nose was tobacco.</p>
<p>Another peculiarity of his was, that he always stepped a yard at a time,
clenched his fists as if he were going to hit you, and was, when in one
of his peculiar humors, very far from a pleasant companion.</p>
<p>It is further necessary to observe that he lived in a very nice house,
in that very nice street, the Konigstrasse at Hamburg. Though lying in
the centre of a town, it was perfectly rural in its aspect—half wood,
half bricks, with old-fashioned gables—one of the few old houses spared
by the great fire of 1842.</p>
<p>When I say a nice house, I mean a handsome house—old, tottering, and
not exactly comfortable to English notions: a house a little off the
perpendicular and inclined to fall into the neighboring canal; exactly
the house for a wandering artist to depict; all the more that you could
scarcely see it for ivy and a magnificent old tree which grew over the
door.</p>
<p>My uncle was rich; his house was his own property, while he had a
considerable private income. To my notion the best part of his
possessions was his god-daughter, Gretchen. And the old cook, the young
lady, the Professor and I were the sole inhabitants.</p>
<p>I loved mineralogy, I loved geology. To me there was nothing like
pebbles—and if my uncle had been in a little less of a fury, we should
have been the happiest of families. To prove the excellent Hardwigg's
impatience, I solemnly declare that when the flowers in the drawing-room
pots began to grow, he rose every morning at four o'clock to make them
grow quicker by pulling the leaves!</p>
<p>Having described my uncle, I will now give an account of our interview.</p>
<p>He received me in his study; a perfect museum, containing every natural
curiosity that can well be imagined—minerals, however, predominating.
Every one was familiar to me, having been catalogued by my own hand. My
uncle, apparently oblivious of the fact that he had summoned me to his
presence, was absorbed in a book. He was particularly fond of early
editions, tall copies, and unique works.</p>
<p>"Wonderful!" he cried, tapping his forehead. "Wonderful—wonderful!"</p>
<p>It was one of those yellow-leaved volumes now rarely found on stalls,
and to me it appeared to possess but little value. My uncle, however,
was in raptures.</p>
<p>He admired its binding, the clearness of its characters, the ease with
which it opened in his hand, and repeated aloud, half a dozen times,
that it was very, very old.</p>
<p>To my fancy he was making a great fuss about nothing, but it was not my
province to say so. On the contrary, I professed considerable interest
in the subject, and asked him what it was about.</p>
<p>"It is the Heims-Kringla of Snorre Tarleson," he said, "the celebrated
Icelandic author of the twelfth century—it is a true and correct
account of the Norwegian princes who reigned in Iceland."</p>
<p>My next question related to the language in which it was written. I
hoped at all events it was translated into German. My uncle was
indignant at the very thought, and declared he wouldn't give a penny for
a translation. His delight was to have found the original work in the
Icelandic tongue, which he declared to be one of the most magnificent
and yet simple idioms in the world—while at the same time its
grammatical combinations were the most varied known to students.</p>
<p>"About as easy as German?" was my insidious remark.</p>
<p>My uncle shrugged his shoulders.</p>
<p>"The letters at all events," I said, "are rather difficult of
comprehension."</p>
<p>"It is a Runic manuscript, the language of the original population of
Iceland, invented by Odin himself," cried my uncle, angry at my
ignorance.</p>
<p>I was about to venture upon some misplaced joke on the subject, when a
small scrap of parchment fell out of the leaves. Like a hungry man
snatching at a morsel of bread the Professor seized it. It was about
five inches by three and was scrawled over in the most extraordinary
fashion.</p>
<p>The lines shown here are an exact facsimile of what was written on the
venerable piece of parchment—and have wonderful importance, as they
induced my uncle to undertake the most wonderful series of adventures
which ever fell to the lot of human beings.</p>
<p>My uncle looked keenly at the document for some moments and then
declared that it was Runic. The letters were similar to those in the
book, but then what did they mean? This was exactly what I wanted to
know.</p>
<p>Now as I had a strong conviction that the Runic alphabet and dialect
were simply an invention to mystify poor human nature, I was delighted
to find that my uncle knew as much about the matter as I did—which was
nothing. At all events the tremulous motion of his fingers made me think
so.</p>
<p>"And yet," he muttered to himself, "it is old Icelandic, I am sure of
it."</p>
<p>And my uncle ought to have known, for he was a perfect polyglot
dictionary in himself. He did not pretend, like a certain learned
pundit, to speak the two thousand languages and four thousand idioms
made use of in different parts of the globe, but he did know all the
more important ones.</p>
<p>It is a matter of great doubt to me now, to what violent measures my
uncle's impetuosity might have led him, had not the clock struck two,
and our old French cook called out to let us know that dinner was on the
table.</p>
<p>"Bother the dinner!" cried my uncle.</p>
<p>But as I was hungry, I sallied forth to the dining room, where I took up
my usual quarters. Out of politeness I waited three minutes, but no sign
of my uncle, the Professor. I was surprised. He was not usually so blind
to the pleasure of a good dinner. It was the acme of German
luxury—parsley soup, a ham omelette with sorrel trimmings, an oyster of
veal stewed with prunes, delicious fruit, and sparkling Moselle. For the
sake of poring over this musty old piece of parchment, my uncle forbore
to share our meal. To satisfy my conscience, I ate for both.</p>
<p>The old cook and housekeeper was nearly out of her mind. After taking so
much trouble, to find her master not appear at dinner was to her a sad
disappointment—which, as she occasionally watched the havoc I was
making on the viands, became also alarm. If my uncle were to come to
table after all?</p>
<p>Suddenly, just as I had consumed the last apple and drunk the last glass
of wine, a terrible voice was heard at no great distance. It was my
uncle roaring for me to come to him. I made very nearly one leap of
it—so loud, so fierce was his tone.</p>
<hr style="width: 65%;"/>
<h2 id="pgepubid00004"><a id="CHAPTER_2"/>CHAPTER 2</h2>
<h4 id="pgepubid00005">THE MYSTERIOUS PARCHMENT</h4>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
<img alt="" src="2246366075182677572_image01.png" title="" id="img_images_image01.png"/>
</div>
<p>"I declare," cried my uncle, striking the table fiercely with his fist,
"I declare to you it is Runic—and contains some wonderful secret, which
I must get at, at any price."</p>
<p>I was about to reply when he stopped me.</p>
<p>"Sit down," he said, quite fiercely, "and write to my dictation."</p>
<p>I obeyed.</p>
<p>"I will substitute," he said, "a letter of our alphabet for that of the
Runic: we will then see what that will produce. Now, begin and make no
mistakes."</p>
<p>The dictation commenced with the following incomprehensible result:</p>
<p>
<br/>
<span style="margin-left: 2.5em;">mm.rnlls esruel seecJde</span><br/>
<span style="margin-left: 2.5em;">sgtssmf unteief niedrke</span><br/>
<span style="margin-left: 2.5em;">kt,samn atrateS Saodrrn</span><br/>
<span style="margin-left: 2.5em;">emtnaeI nuaect  rrilSa</span><br/>
<span style="margin-left: 2.5em;">Atvaar  .nscrc  ieaabs</span><br/>
<span style="margin-left: 2.5em;">ccdrmi  eeutul  frantu</span><br/>
<span style="margin-left: 2.5em;">dt,iac  oseibo  KediiY</span><br/>
<br/>
</p>
<p>Scarcely giving me time to finish, my uncle snatched the document from
my hands and examined it with the most rapt and deep attention.</p>
<p>"I should like to know what it means," he said, after a long period.</p>
<p>I certainly could not tell him, nor did he expect me to—his
conversation being uniformly answered by himself.</p>
<p>"I declare it puts me in mind of a cryptograph," he cried, "unless,
indeed, the letters have been written without any real meaning; and yet
why take so much trouble? Who knows but I may be on the verge of some
great discovery?"</p>
<p>My candid opinion was that it was all rubbish! But this opinion I kept
carefully to myself, as my uncle's choler was not pleasant to bear. All
this time he was comparing the book with the parchment.</p>
<p>"The manuscript volume and the smaller document are written in different
hands," he said, "the cryptograph is of much later date than the book;
there is an undoubted proof of the correctness of my surmise. [An
irrefragable proof I took it to be.] The first letter is a double M,
which was only added to the Icelandic language in the twelfth
century—this makes the parchment two hundred years posterior to the
volume."</p>
<p>The circumstances appeared very probable and very logical, but it was
all surmise to me.</p>
<p>"To me it appears probable that this sentence was written by some owner
of the book. Now who was the owner, is the next important question.
Perhaps by great good luck it may be written somewhere in the volume."</p>
<p>With these words Professor Hardwigg took off his spectacles, and, taking
a powerful magnifying glass, examined the book carefully.</p>
<p>On the fly leaf was what appeared to be a blot of ink, but on
examination proved to be a line of writing almost effaced by time. This
was what he sought; and, after some considerable time, he made out these
letters:</p>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;">
<img alt="" src="2246366075182677572_image02.png" title="" id="img_images_image02.png"/>
</div>
<p>"Arne Saknussemm!" he cried in a joyous and triumphant tone, "that is
not only an Icelandic name, but of a learned professor of the sixteenth
century, a celebrated alchemist."</p>
<p>I bowed as a sign of respect.</p>
<p>"These alchemists," he continued, "Avicenna, Bacon, Lully, Paracelsus,
were the true, the only learned men of the day. They made surprising
discoveries. May not this Saknussemm, nephew mine, have hidden on this
bit of parchment some astounding invention? I believe the cryptograph to
have a profound meaning—which I must make out."</p>
<p>My uncle walked about the room in a state of excitement almost
impossible to describe.</p>
<p>"It may be so, sir," I timidly observed, "but why conceal it from
posterity, if it be a useful, a worthy discovery?"</p>
<p>"Why—how should I know? Did not Galileo make a secret of his
discoveries in connection with Saturn? But we shall see. Until I
discover the meaning of this sentence I will neither eat nor sleep."</p>
<p>"My dear uncle—" I began.</p>
<p>"Nor you neither," he added.</p>
<p>It was lucky I had taken double allowance that day.</p>
<p>"In the first place," he continued, "there must be a clue to the
meaning. If we could find that, the rest would be easy enough."</p>
<p>I began seriously to reflect. The prospect of going without food and
sleep was not a promising one, so I determined to do my best to solve
the mystery. My uncle, meanwhile, went on with his soliloquy.</p>
<p>"The way to discover it is easy enough. In this document there are one
hundred and thirty-two letters, giving seventy-nine consonants to
fifty-three vowels. This is about the proportion found in most southern
languages, the idioms of the north being much more rich in consonants.
We may confidently predict, therefore, that we have to deal with a
southern dialect."</p>
<p>Nothing could be more logical.</p>
<p>"Now," said Professor Hardwigg, "to trace the particular language."</p>
<p>"As Shakespeare says, 'that is the question,"' was my rather satirical
reply.</p>
<p>"This man Saknussemm," he continued, "was a very learned man: now as he
did not write in the language of his birthplace, he probably, like most
learned men of the sixteenth century, wrote in Latin. If, however, I
prove wrong in this guess, we must try Spanish, French, Italian, Greek,
and even Hebrew. My own opinion, though, is decidedly in favor of
Latin."</p>
<p>This proposition startled me. Latin was my favorite study, and it seemed
sacrilege to believe this gibberish to belong to the country of Virgil.</p>
<p>"Barbarous Latin, in all probability," continued my uncle, "but still
Latin."</p>
<p>"Very probably," I replied, not to contradict him.</p>
<p>"Let us see into the matter," continued my uncle; "here you see we have
a series of one hundred and thirty-two letters, apparently thrown
pell-mell upon paper, without method or organization. There are words
which are composed wholly of consonants, such as <i>mm.rnlls</i>, others
which are nearly all vowels, the fifth, for instance, which is unteief,
and one of the last oseibo. This appears an extraordinary combination.
Probably we shall find that the phrase is arranged according to some
mathematical plan. No doubt a certain sentence has been written out and
then jumbled up—some plan to which some figure is the clue. Now, Harry,
to show your English wit—what is that figure?"</p>
<p>I could give him no hint. My thoughts were indeed far away. While he was
speaking I had caught sight of the portrait of my cousin Gretchen, and
was wondering when she would return.</p>
<p>We were affianced, and loved one another very sincerely. But my uncle,
who never thought even of such sublunary matters, knew nothing of this.
Without noticing my abstraction, the Professor began reading the
puzzling cryptograph all sorts of ways, according to some theory of his
own. Presently, rousing my wandering attention, he dictated one precious
attempt to me.</p>
<p>I mildly handed it over to him. It read as follows:</p>
<p>
<br/>
<span style="margin-left: 2em;"><i>mmessunkaSenrA.icefdoK.segnittamurtn</i></span><br/>
<span style="margin-left: 2em;"><i>ecertserrette,rotaivsadua,ednecsedsadne</i></span><br/>
<span style="margin-left: 2em;"><i>lacartniiilrJsiratracSarbmutabiledmek</i></span><br/>
<span style="margin-left: 2em;"><i>meretarcsilucoYsleffenSnI.</i></span><br/>
<br/>
</p>
<p>I could scarcely keep from laughing, while my uncle, on the contrary,
got in a towering passion, struck the table with his fist, darted out of
the room, out of the house, and then taking to his heels was presently
lost to sight.</p>
<hr style="width: 65%;"/>
<h2 id="pgepubid00006"><a id="CHAPTER_3"/>CHAPTER 3</h2>
<h4 id="pgepubid00007">AN ASTOUNDING DISCOVERY</h4>
<p>"What is the matter?" cried the cook, entering the room; "when will
master have his dinner?"</p>
<p>"Never."</p>
<p>"And, his supper?"</p>
<p>"I don't know. He says he will eat no more, neither shall I. My uncle
has determined to fast and make me fast until he makes out this
abominable inscription," I replied.</p>
<p>"You will be starved to death," she said.</p>
<p>I was very much of the same opinion, but not liking to say so, sent her
away, and began some of my usual work of classification. But try as I
might, nothing could keep me from thinking alternately of the stupid
manuscript and of the pretty Gretchen.</p>
<p>Several times I thought of going out, but my uncle would have been angry
at my absence. At the end of an hour, my allotted task was done. How to
pass the time? I began by lighting my pipe. Like all other students, I
delighted in tobacco; and, seating myself in the great armchair, I began
to think.</p>
<p>Where was my uncle? I could easily imagine him tearing along some
solitary road, gesticulating, talking to himself, cutting the air with
his cane, and still thinking of the absurd bit of hieroglyphics. Would
he hit upon some clue? Would he come home in better humor? While these
thoughts were passing through my brain, I mechanically took up the
execrable puzzle and tried every imaginable way of grouping the letters.
I put them together by twos, by threes, fours, and fives—in vain.
Nothing intelligible came out, except that the fourteenth, fifteenth,
and sixteenth made <i>ice</i> in English; the eighty-fourth, eighty-fifth,
and eighty-sixth, the word <i>sir</i>; then at last I seemed to find the
Latin words <i>rota, mutabile, ira, nec, atra</i>.</p>
<p>"Ha! there seems to be some truth in my uncle's notion," thought I.</p>
<p>Then again I seemed to find the word <i>luco</i>, which means sacred wood.
Then in the third line I appeared to make out <i>labiled</i>, a perfect
Hebrew word, and at the last the syllables mere, are, mer, which were
French.</p>
<p>It was enough to drive one mad. Four different idioms in this absurd
phrase. What connection could there be between ice, sir, anger, cruel,
sacred wood, changing, mother, are, and sea? The first and the last
might, in a sentence connected with Iceland, mean sea of ice. But what
of the rest of this monstrous cryptograph?</p>
<p>I was, in fact, fighting against an insurmountable difficulty; my brain
was almost on fire; my eyes were strained with staring at the parchment;
the whole absurd collection of letters appeared to dance before my
vision in a number of black little groups. My mind was possessed with
temporary hallucination—I was stifling. I wanted air. Mechanically I
fanned myself with the document, of which now I saw the back and then
the front.</p>
<p>Imagine my surprise when glancing at the back of the wearisome puzzle,
the ink having gone through, I clearly made out Latin words, and among
others craterem and terrestre.</p>
<p>I had discovered the secret!</p>
<p>It came upon me like a flash of lightning. I had got the clue. All you
had to do to understand the document was to read it backwards. All the
ingenious ideas of the Professor were realized; he had dictated it
rightly to me; by a mere accident I had discovered what he so much
desired.</p>
<p>My delight, my emotion may be imagined, my eyes were dazzled and I
trembled so that at first I could make nothing of it. One look, however,
would tell me all I wished to know.</p>
<p>"Let me read," I said to myself, after drawing a long breath.</p>
<p>I spread it before me on the table, I passed my finger over each letter,
I spelled it through; in my excitement I read it out.</p>
<p>What horror and stupefaction took possession of my soul. I was like a
man who had received a knock-down blow. Was it possible that I really
read the terrible secret, and it had really been accomplished! A man had
dared to do—what?</p>
<p>No living being should ever know.</p>
<p>"Never!" cried I, jumping up. "Never shall my uncle be made aware of the
dread secret. He would be quite capable of undertaking the terrible
journey. Nothing would check him, nothing stop him. Worse, he would
compel me to accompany him, and we should be lost forever. But no; such
folly and madness cannot be allowed."</p>
<p>I was almost beside myself with rage and fury.</p>
<p>"My worthy uncle is already nearly mad," I cried aloud. "This would
finish him. By some accident he may make the discovery; in which case,
we are both lost. Perish the fearful secret—let the flames forever bury
it in oblivion."</p>
<p>I snatched up book and parchment, and was about to cast them into the
fire, when the door opened and my uncle entered.</p>
<p>I had scarcely time to put down the wretched documents before my uncle
was by my side. He was profoundly absorbed. His thoughts were evidently
bent on the terrible parchment. Some new combination had probably struck
him while taking his walk.</p>
<p>He seated himself in his armchair, and with a pen began to make an
algebraical calculation. I watched him with anxious eyes. My flesh
crawled as it became probable that he would discover the secret.</p>
<p>His combinations I knew now were useless, I having discovered the one
only clue. For three mortal hours he continued without speaking a word,
without raising his head, scratching, rewriting, calculating over and
over again. I knew that in time he must hit upon the right phrase. The
letters of every alphabet have only a certain number of combinations.
But then years might elapse before he would arrive at the correct
solution.</p>
<p>Still time went on; night came, the sounds in the streets ceased—and
still my uncle went on, not even answering our worthy cook when she
called us to supper.</p>
<p>I did not dare to leave him, so waved her away, and at last fell asleep
on the sofa.</p>
<p>When I awoke my uncle was still at work. His red eyes, his pallid
countenance, his matted hair, his feverish hands, his hectically flushed
cheeks, showed how terrible had been his struggle with the impossible,
and what fearful fatigue he had undergone during that long sleepless
night. It made me quite ill to look at him. Though he was rather severe
with me, I loved him, and my heart ached at his sufferings. He was so
overcome by one idea that he could not even get in a passion! All his
energies were focused on one point. And I knew that by speaking one
little word all this suffering would cease. I could not speak it.</p>
<p>My heart was, nevertheless, inclining towards him. Why, then, did I
remain silent? In the interest of my uncle himself.</p>
<p>"Nothing shall make me speak," I muttered. "He will want to follow in
the footsteps of the other! I know him well. His imagination is a
perfect volcano, and to make discoveries in the interests of geology he
would sacrifice his life. I will therefore be silent and strictly keep
the secret I have discovered. To reveal it would be suicidal. He would
not only rush, himself, to destruction, but drag me with him."</p>
<p>I crossed my arms, looked another way and smoked—resolved never to
speak.</p>
<p>When our cook wanted to go out to market, or on any other errand, she
found the front door locked and the key taken away. Was this done
purposely or not? Surely Professor Hardwigg did not intend the old woman
and myself to become martyrs to his obstinate will. Were we to be
starved to death? A frightful recollection came to my mind. Once we had
fed on bits and scraps for a week while he sorted some curiosities. It
gave me the cramp even to think of it!</p>
<p>I wanted my breakfast, and I saw no way of getting it. Still my
resolution held good. I would starve rather than yield. But the cook
began to take me seriously to task. What was to be done? She could not
go out; and I dared not.</p>
<p>My uncle continued counting and writing; his imagination seemed to have
translated him to the skies. He neither thought of eating nor drinking.
In this way twelve o'clock came round. I was hungry, and there was
nothing in the house. The cook had eaten the last bit of bread. This
could not go on. It did, however, until two, when my sensations were
terrible. After all, I began to think the document very absurd. Perhaps
it might only be a gigantic hoax. Besides, some means would surely be
found to keep my uncle back from attempting any such absurd expedition.
On the other hand, if he did attempt anything so quixotic, I should not
be compelled to accompany him. Another line of reasoning partially
decided me. Very likely he would make the discovery himself when I
should have suffered starvation for nothing. Under the influence of
hunger this reasoning appeared admirable. I determined to tell all.</p>
<p>The question now arose as to how it was to be done. I was still dwelling
on the thought, when he rose and put on his hat.</p>
<p>What! go out and lock us in? Never!</p>
<p>"Uncle," I began.</p>
<p>He did not appear even to hear me.</p>
<p>"Professor Hardwigg," I cried.</p>
<p>"What," he retorted, "did you speak?"</p>
<p>"How about the key?"</p>
<p>"What key—the key of the door?"</p>
<p>"No—of these horrible hieroglyphics?"</p>
<p>He looked at me from under his spectacles, and started at the odd
expression of my face. Rushing forward, he clutched me by the arm and
keenly examined my countenance. His very look was an interrogation.</p>
<p>I simply nodded.</p>
<p>With an incredulous shrug of the shoulders, he turned upon his heel.
Undoubtedly he thought I had gone mad.</p>
<p>"I have made a very important discovery."</p>
<p>His eyes flashed with excitement. His hand was lifted in a menacing
attitude. For a moment neither of us spoke. It is hard to say which was
most excited.</p>
<p>"You don't mean to say that you have any idea of the meaning of the
scrawl?"</p>
<p>"I do," was my desperate reply. "Look at the sentence as dictated by
you."</p>
<p>"Well, but it means nothing," was the angry answer.</p>
<p>"Nothing if you read from left to right, but mark, if from right to
left—"</p>
<p>"Backwards!" cried my uncle, in wild amazement. "Oh most cunning
Saknussemm; and I to be such a blockhead!"</p>
<p>He snatched up the document, gazed at it with haggard eye, and read it
out as I had done.</p>
<p>It read as follows:</p>
<p>
<br/>
<span style="margin-left: 2em;"><i>In Sneffels Yoculis craterem kem delibat</i></span><br/>
<span style="margin-left: 2em;"><i>umbra Scartaris Julii intra calendas descende,</i></span><br/>
<span style="margin-left: 2em;"><i>audas viator, et terrestre centrum attinges.</i></span><br/>
<span style="margin-left: 2em;"><i>Kod feci. Arne Saknussemm</i></span><br/>
<br/>
</p>
<p>Which dog Latin being translated, reads as follows:</p>
<p>
<br/>
<span style="margin-left: 2.5em;">Descend into the crater of Yocul of Sneffels, which the shade of</span><br/>
<span style="margin-left: 2.5em;">Scartaris caresses, before the kalends of July, audacious traveler,</span><br/>
<span style="margin-left: 2.5em;">and you will reach the centre of the earth. I did it.</span><br/>
<br/>
<span style="margin-left: 23.5em;">ARNE SAKNUSSEMM</span><br/>
<br/>
</p>
<p>My uncle leaped three feet from the ground with joy. He looked radiant
and handsome. He rushed about the room wild with delight and
satisfaction. He knocked over tables and chairs. He threw his books
about until at last, utterly exhausted, he fell into his armchair.</p>
<p>"What's o'clock?" he asked.</p>
<p>"About three."</p>
<p>"My dinner does not seem to have done me much good," he observed. "Let
me have something to eat. We can then start at once. Get my portmanteau
ready."</p>
<p>"What for?"</p>
<p>"And your own," he continued. "We start at once."</p>
<p>My horror may be conceived. I resolved however to show no fear.
Scientific reasons were the only ones likely to influence my uncle. Now,
there were many against this terrible journey. The very idea of going
down to the centre of the earth was simply absurd. I determined
therefore to argue the point after dinner.</p>
<p>My uncle's rage was now directed against the cook for having no dinner
ready. My explanation however satisfied him, and having gotten the key,
she soon contrived to get sufficient to satisfy our voracious appetites.</p>
<p>During the repast my uncle was rather gay than otherwise. He made some
of those peculiar jokes which belong exclusively to the learned. As
soon, however, as dessert was over, he called me to his study. We each
took a chair on opposite sides of the table.</p>
<p>"Henry," he said, in a soft and winning voice; "I have always believed
you ingenious, and you have rendered me a service never to be forgotten.
Without you, this great, this wondrous discovery would never have been
made. It is my duty, therefore, to insist on your sharing the glory."</p>
<p>"He is in a good humor," thought I; "I'll soon let him know my opinion
of glory."</p>
<p>"In the first place," he continued, "you must keep the whole affair a
profound secret. There is no more envious race of men than scientific
discoverers. Many would start on the same journey. At all events, we
will be the first in the field."</p>
<p>"I doubt your having many competitors," was my reply.</p>
<p>"A man of real scientific acquirements would be delighted at the chance.
We should find a perfect stream of pilgrims on the traces of Arne
Saknussemm, if this document were once made public."</p>
<p>"But, my dear sir, is not this paper very likely to be a hoax?" I urged.</p>
<p>"The book in which we find it is sufficient proof of its authenticity,"
he replied.</p>
<p>"I thoroughly allow that the celebrated Professor wrote the lines, but
only, I believe, as a kind of mystification," was my answer.</p>
<p>Scarcely were the words out of my mouth, when I was sorry I had uttered
them. My uncle looked at me with a dark and gloomy scowl, and I began to
be alarmed for the results of our conversation. His mood soon changed,
however, and a smile took the place of a frown.</p>
<p>"We shall see," he remarked, with decisive emphasis.</p>
<p>"But see, what is all this about Yocul, and Sneffels, and this
Scartaris? I have never heard anything about them."</p>
<p>"The very point to which I am coming. I lately received from my friend
Augustus Peterman, of Leipzig, a map. Take down the third atlas from the
second shelf, series Z, plate 4."</p>
<p>I rose, went to the shelf, and presently returned with the volume
indicated.</p>
<p>"This," said my uncle, "is one of the best maps of Iceland. I believe it
will settle all your doubts, difficulties and objections."</p>
<p>With a grim hope to the contrary, I stooped over the map.</p>
<hr style="width: 65%;"/>
<h2 id="pgepubid00008"><a id="CHAPTER_4"/>CHAPTER 4</h2>
<h4 id="pgepubid00009">WE START ON THE JOURNEY</h4>
<p>"You see, the whole island is composed of volcanoes," said the
Professor, "and remark carefully that they all bear the name of Yocul.
The word is Icelandic, and means a glacier. In most of the lofty
mountains of that region the volcanic eruptions come forth from icebound
caverns. Hence the name applied to every volcano on this extraordinary
island."</p>
<p>"But what does this word Sneffels mean?"</p>
<p>To this question I expected no rational answer. I was mistaken.</p>
<p>"Follow my finger to the western coast of Iceland, there you see
Reykjavik, its capital. Follow the direction of one of its innumerable
fjords or arms of the sea, and what do you see below the sixty-fifth
degree of latitude?"</p>
<p>"A peninsula—very like a thighbone in shape."</p>
<p>"And in the centre of it—?"</p>
<p>"A mountain."</p>
<p>"Well, that's Sneffels."</p>
<p>I had nothing to say.</p>
<p>"That is Sneffels—a mountain about five thousand feet in height, one of
the most remarkable in the whole island, and certainly doomed to be the
most celebrated in the world, for through its crater we shall reach the
centre of the earth."</p>
<p>"Impossible!" cried I, startled and shocked at the thought.</p>
<p>"Why impossible?" said Professor Hardwigg in his severest tones.</p>
<p>"Because its crater is choked with lava, by burning rocks—by infinite
dangers."</p>
<p>"But if it be extinct?"</p>
<p>"That would make a difference."</p>
<p>"Of course it would. There are about three hundred volcanoes on the
whole surface of the globe—but the greater number are extinct. Of these
Sneffels is one. No eruption has occurred since 1219—in fact it has
ceased to be a volcano at all."</p>
<p>After this what more could I say? Yes,—I thought of another objection.</p>
<p>"But what is all this about Scartaris and the kalends of July—?"</p>
<p>My uncle reflected deeply. Presently he gave forth the result of his
reflections in a sententious tone. "What appears obscure to you, to me
is light. This very phrase shows how particular Saknussemm is in his
directions. The Sneffels mountain has many craters. He is careful
therefore to point the exact one which is the highway into the Interior
of the Earth. He lets us know, for this purpose, that about the end of
the month of June, the shadow of Mount Scartaris falls upon the one
crater. There can be no doubt about the matter."</p>
<p>My uncle had an answer for everything.</p>
<p>"I accept all your explanations" I said, "and Saknussemm is right. He
found out the entrance to the bowels of the earth, he has indicated
correctly, but that he or anyone else ever followed up the discovery is
madness to suppose."</p>
<p>"Why so, young man?"</p>
<p>"All scientific teaching, theoretical and practical, shows it to be
impossible."</p>
<p>"I care nothing for theories," retorted my uncle.</p>
<p>"But is it not well-known that heat increases one degree for every
seventy feet you descend into the earth? Which gives a fine idea of the
central heat. All the matters which compose the globe are in a state of
incandescence; even gold, platinum, and the hardest rocks are in a state
of fusion. What would become of us?"</p>
<p>"Don't be alarmed at the heat, my boy."</p>
<p>"How so?"</p>
<p>"Neither you nor anybody else know anything about the real state of the
earth's interior. All modern experiments tend to explode the older
theories. Were any such heat to exist, the upper crust of the earth
would be shattered to atoms, and the world would be at an end."</p>
<p>A long, learned and not uninteresting discussion followed, which ended
in this wise:</p>
<p>"I do not believe in the dangers and difficulties which you, Henry, seem
to multiply; and the only way to learn, is like Arne Saknussemm, to go
and see."</p>
<p>"Well," cried I, overcome at last, "let us go and see. Though how we can
do that in the dark is another mystery."</p>
<p>"Fear nothing. We shall overcome these, and many other difficulties.
Besides, as we approach the centre, I expect to find it luminous—"</p>
<p>"Nothing is impossible."</p>
<p>"And now that we have come to a thorough understanding, not a word to
any living soul. Our success depends on secrecy and dispatch."</p>
<p>Thus ended our memorable conference, which roused a perfect fever in me.
Leaving my uncle, I went forth like one possessed. Reaching the banks of
the Elbe, I began to think. Was all I had heard really and truly
possible? Was my uncle in his sober senses, and could the interior of
the earth be reached? Was I the victim of a madman, or was he a
discoverer of rare courage and grandeur of conception?</p>
<p>To a certain extent I was anxious to be off. I was afraid my enthusiasm
would cool. I determined to pack up at once. At the end of an hour,
however, on my way home, I found that my feelings had very much changed.</p>
<p>"I'm all abroad," I cried; "'tis a nightmare—I must have dreamed it."</p>
<p>At this moment I came face to face with Gretchen, whom I warmly
embraced.</p>
<p>"So you have come to meet me," she said; "how good of you. But what is
the matter?"</p>
<p>Well, it was no use mincing the matter, I told her all. She listened
with awe, and for some minutes she could not speak.</p>
<p>"Well?" I at last said, rather anxiously.</p>
<p>"What a magnificent journey. If I were only a man! A journey worthy of
the nephew of Professor Hardwigg. I should look upon it as an honor to
accompany him."</p>
<p>"My dear Gretchen, I thought you would be the first to cry out against
this mad enterprise."</p>
<p>"No; on the contrary, I glory in it. It is magnificent, splendid—an
idea worthy of my father. Henry Lawson, I envy you."</p>
<p>This was, as it were, conclusive. The final blow of all.</p>
<p>When we entered the house we found my uncle surrounded by workmen and
porters, who were packing up. He was pulling and hauling at a bell.</p>
<p>"Where have you been wasting your time? Your portmanteau is not
packed—my papers are not in order—the precious tailor has not brought
my clothes, nor my gaiters—the key of my carpet bag is gone!"</p>
<p>I looked at him stupefied. And still he tugged away at the bell.</p>
<p>"We are really off, then?" I said.</p>
<p>"Yes—of course, and yet you go out for a stroll, unfortunate boy!"</p>
<p>"And when do we go?"</p>
<p>"The day after tomorrow, at daybreak."</p>
<p>I heard no more; but darted off to my little bedchamber and locked
myself in. There was no doubt about it now. My uncle had been hard at
work all the afternoon. The garden was full of ropes, rope ladders,
torches, gourds, iron clamps, crowbars, alpenstocks, and
pickaxes—enough to load ten men.</p>
<p>I passed a terrible night. I was called early the next day to learn that
the resolution of my uncle was unchanged and irrevocable. I also found
my cousin and affianced wife as warm on the subject as was her father.</p>
<p>Next day, at five o'clock in the morning, the post chaise was at the
door. Gretchen and the old cook received the keys of the house; and,
scarcely pausing to wish anyone good-by, we started on our adventurous
journey into the centre of the earth.</p>
<hr style="width: 65%;"/>
<h2 id="pgepubid00010"><a id="CHAPTER_5"/>CHAPTER 5</h2>
<h4 id="pgepubid00011">FIRST LESSONS IN CLIMBING</h4>
<p>At Altona, a suburb of Hamburg, is the Chief Station of the Kiel
railway, which was to take us to the shores of the Belt. In twenty
minutes from the moment of our departure we were in Holstein, and our
carriage entered the station. Our heavy luggage was taken out, weighed,
labeled, and placed in a huge van. We then took our tickets, and exactly
at seven o'clock were seated opposite each other in a firstclass railway
carriage.</p>
<p>My uncle said nothing. He was too busy examining his papers, among which
of course was the famous parchment, and some letters of introduction
from the Danish consul which were to pave the way to an introduction to
the Governor of Iceland. My only amusement was looking out of the
window. But as we passed through a flat though fertile country, this
occupation was slightly monotonous. In three hours we reached Kiel, and
our baggage was at once transferred to the steamer.</p>
<p>We had now a day before us, a delay of about ten hours. Which fact put
my uncle in a towering passion. We had nothing to do but to walk about
the pretty town and bay. At length, however, we went on board, and at
half past ten were steaming down the Great Belt. It was a dark night,
with a strong breeze and a rough sea, nothing being visible but the
occasional fires on shore, with here and there a lighthouse. At seven in
the morning we left Korsor, a little town on the western side of
Seeland.</p>
<p>Here we took another railway, which in three hours brought us to the
capital, Copenhagen, where, scarcely taking time for refreshment, my
uncle hurried out to present one of his letters of introduction. It was
to the director of the Museum of Antiquities, who, having been informed
that we were tourists bound for Iceland, did all he could to assist us.
One wretched hope sustained me now. Perhaps no vessel was bound for such
distant parts.</p>
<p>Alas! a little Danish schooner, the <i>Valkyrie</i>, was to sail on the
second of June for Reykjavik. The captain, M. Bjarne, was on board, and
was rather surprised at the energy and cordiality with which his future
passenger shook him by the hand. To him a voyage to Iceland was merely a
matter of course. My uncle, on the other hand, considered the event of
sublime importance. The honest sailor took advantage of the Professor's
enthusiasm to double the fare.</p>
<p>"On Tuesday morning at seven o'clock be on board," said M. Bjarne,
handing us our receipts.</p>
<p>"Excellent! Capital! Glorious!" remarked my uncle as we sat down to a
late breakfast; "refresh yourself, my boy, and we will take a run
through the town."</p>
<p>Our meal concluded, we went to the Kongens-Nye-Torw; to the king's
magnificent palace; to the beautiful bridge over the canal near the
Museum; to the immense cenotaph of Thorwaldsen with its hideous naval
groups; to the castle of Rosenberg; and to all the other lions of the
place-none of which my uncle even saw, so absorbed was he in his
anticipated triumphs.</p>
<p>But one thing struck his fancy, and that was a certain singular steeple
situated on the Island of Amak, which is the southeast quarter of the
city of Copenhagen. My uncle at once ordered me to turn my steps that
way, and accordingly we went on board the steam ferry boat which does
duty on the canal, and very soon reached the noted dockyard quay.</p>
<p>In the first instance we crossed some narrow streets, where we met
numerous groups of galley slaves, with particolored trousers, grey and
yellow, working under the orders and the sticks of severe taskmasters,
and finally reached the Vor-Frelser's-Kirk.</p>
<p>This church exhibited nothing remarkable in itself; in fact, the worthy
Professor had only been attracted to it by one circumstance, which was,
that its rather elevated steeple started from a circular platform, after
which there was an exterior staircase, which wound round to the very
summit.</p>
<p>"Let us ascend," said my uncle.</p>
<p>"But I never could climb church towers," I cried, "I am subject to
dizziness in my head."</p>
<p>"The very reason why you should go up. I want to cure you of a bad
habit."</p>
<p>"But, my good sir—"</p>
<p>"I tell you to come. What is the use of wasting so much valuable time?"</p>
<p>It was impossible to dispute the dictatorial commands of my uncle. I
yielded with a groan. On payment of a fee, a verger gave us the key. He,
for one, was not partial to the ascent. My uncle at once showed me the
way, running up the steps like a schoolboy. I followed as well as I
could, though no sooner was I outside the tower, than my head began to
swim. There was nothing of the eagle about me. The earth was enough for
me, and no ambitious desire to soar ever entered my mind. Still things
did not go badly until I had ascended 150 steps, and was near the
platform, when I began to feel the rush of cold air. I could scarcely
stand, when clutching the railings, I looked upwards. The railing was
frail enough, but nothing to those which skirted the terrible winding
staircase, that appeared, from where I stood, to ascend to the skies.</p>
<p>"Now then, Henry."</p>
<p>"I can't do it!" I cried, in accents of despair.</p>
<p>"Are you, after all, a coward, sir?" said my uncle in a pitiless tone.
"Go up, I say!"</p>
<p>To this there was no reply possible. And yet the keen air acted
violently on my nervous system; sky, earth, all seemed to swim round,
while the steeple rocked like a ship. My legs gave way like those of a
drunken man. I crawled upon my hands and knees; I hauled myself up
slowly, crawling like a snake. Presently I closed my eyes, and allowed
myself to be dragged upwards.</p>
<p>"Look around you," said my uncle in a stern voice, "heaven knows what
profound abysses you may have to look down. This is excellent practice."</p>
<p>Slowly, and shivering all the while with cold, I opened my eyes. What
then did I see? My first glance was upwards at the cold fleecy clouds,
which as by some optical delusion appeared to stand still, while the
steeple, the weathercock, and our two selves were carried swiftly along.
Far away on one side could be seen the grassy plain, while on the other
lay the sea bathed in translucent light. The Sund, or Sound as we call
it, could be discovered beyond the point of Elsinore, crowded with white
sails, which, at that distance looked like the wings of seagulls; while
to the east could be made out the far-off coast of Sweden. The whole
appeared a magic panorama.</p>
<p>But faint and bewildered as I was, there was no remedy for it. Rise and
stand up I must. Despite my protestations my first lesson lasted quite
an hour. When, nearly two hours later, I reached the bosom of mother
earth, I was like a rheumatic old man bent double with pain.</p>
<p>"Enough for one day," said my uncle, rubbing his hands, "we will begin
again tomorrow."</p>
<p>There was no remedy. My lessons lasted five days, and at the end of that
period, I ascended blithely enough, and found myself able to look down
into the depths below without even winking, and with some degree of
pleasure.</p>
<hr style="width: 65%;"/>
<h2 id="pgepubid00012"><a id="CHAPTER_6"/>CHAPTER 6</h2>
<h4 id="pgepubid00013">OUR VOYAGE TO ICELAND</h4>
<p>The hour of departure came at last. The night before, the worthy Mr.
Thompson brought us the most cordial letters of introduction for Baron
Trampe, Governor of Iceland, for M. Pictursson, coadjutor to the bishop,
and for M. Finsen, mayor of the town of Reykjavik. In return, my uncle
nearly crushed his hands, so warmly did he shake them.</p>
<p>On the second of the month, at two in the morning, our precious cargo of
luggage was taken on board the good ship <i>Valkyrie</i>. We followed, and
were very politely introduced by the captain to a small cabin with two
standing bed places, neither very well ventilated nor very comfortable.
But in the cause of science men are expected to suffer.</p>
<p>"Well, and have we a fair wind?" cried my uncle, in his most mellifluous
accents.</p>
<p>"An excellent wind!" replied Captain Bjarne; "we shall leave the Sound,
going free with all sails set."</p>
<p>A few minutes afterwards, the schooner started before the wind, under
all the canvas she could carry, and entered the channel. An hour later,
the capital of Denmark seemed to sink into the waves, and we were at no
great distance from the coast of Elsinore. My uncle was delighted; for
myself, moody and dissatisfied, I appeared almost to expect a glimpse of
the ghost of Hamlet.</p>
<p>"Sublime madman," thought I, "you doubtless would approve our
proceedings. You might perhaps even follow us to the centre of the
earth, there to resolve your eternal doubts."</p>
<p>But no ghost or anything else appeared upon the ancient walls. The fact
is, the castle is much later than the time of the heroic prince of
Denmark. It is now the residence of the keeper of the Strait of the
Sound, and through that Sound more than fifteen thousand vessels of all
nations pass every year.</p>
<p>The castle of Kronborg soon disappeared in the murky atmosphere, as well
as the tower of Helsinborg, which raises its head on the Swedish Bank.
And here the schooner began to feel in earnest the breezes of the
Kattegat. The <i>Valkyrie</i> was swift enough, but with all sailing boats
there is the same uncertainty. Her cargo was coal, furniture, pottery,
woolen clothing, and a load of corn. As usual, the crew was small, five
Danes doing the whole of the work.</p>
<p>"How long will the voyage last?" asked my uncle.</p>
<p>"Well, I should think about ten days," replied the skipper, "unless,
indeed, we meet with some northeast gales among the Faroe Islands."</p>
<p>"At all events, there will be no very considerable delay," cried the
impatient Professor.</p>
<p>"No, Mr. Hardwigg," said the captain, "no fear of that. At all events,
we shall get there some day."</p>
<p>Towards evening the schooner doubled Cape Skagen, the northernmost part
of Denmark, crossed the Skagerrak during the night—skirted the extreme
point of Norway through the gut of Cape Lindesnes, and then reached the
Northern Seas. Two days later we were not far from the coast of
Scotland, somewhere near what Danish sailors call Peterhead, and then
the <i>Valkyrie</i> stretched out direct for the Faroe Islands, between
Orkney and Shetland. Our vessel now felt the full force of the ocean
waves, and the wind shifting, we with great difficulty made the Faroe
Isles. On the eighth day, the captain made out Myganness, the
westernmost of the isles, and from that moment headed direct for
Portland, a cape on the southern shores of the singular island for which
we were bound.</p>
<p>The voyage offered no incident worthy of record. I bore it very well,
but my uncle to his great annoyance, and even shame, was remarkably
seasick! This mal de mer troubled him the more that it prevented him
from questioning Captain Bjarne as to the subject of Sneffels, as to the
means of communication, and the facilities of transport. All these
explanations he had to adjourn to the period of his arrival. His time,
meanwhile, was spent lying in bed groaning, and dwelling anxiously on
the hoped—for termination of the voyage. I didn't pity him.</p>
<p>On the eleventh day we sighted Cape Portland, over which towered Mount
Myrdals Yokul, which, the weather being clear, we made out very readily.
The cape itself is nothing but a huge mount of granite standing naked
and alone to meet the Atlantic waves. The <i>Valkyrie</i> kept off the coast,
steering to the westward. On all sides were to be seen whole "schools"
of whales and sharks. After some hours we came in sight of a solitary
rock in the ocean, forming a mighty vault, through which the foaming
waves poured with intense fury. The islets of Westman appeared to leap
from the ocean, being so low in the water as scarcely to be seen until
you were right upon them. From that moment the schooner was steered to
the westward in order to round Cape Reykjanes, the western point of
Iceland.</p>
<p>My uncle, to his great disgust, was unable even to crawl on deck, so
heavy a sea was on, and thus lost the first view of the Land of Promise.
Forty-eight hours later, after a storm which drove us far to sea under
bare poles, we came once more in sight of land, and were boarded by a
pilot, who, after three hours of dangerous navigation, brought the
schooner safely to an anchor in the bay of Faxa before Reykjavik.</p>
<p>My uncle came out of his cabin pale, haggard, thin, but full of
enthusiasm, his eyes dilated with pleasure and satisfaction. Nearly the
whole population of the town was on foot to see us land. The fact was,
that scarcely any one of them but expected some goods by the periodical
vessel.</p>
<p>Professor Hardwigg was in haste to leave his prison, or rather as he
called it, his hospital; but before he attempted to do so, he caught
hold of my hand, led me to the quarterdeck of the schooner, took my arm
with his left hand, and pointed inland with his right, over the northern
part of the bay, to where rose a high two-peaked mountain—a double cone
covered with eternal snow.</p>
<p>"Behold he whispered in an awe-stricken voice, behold—Mount Sneffels!"</p>
<p>Then without further remark, he put his finger to his lips, frowned
darkly, and descended into the small boat which awaited us. I followed,
and in a few minutes we stood upon the soil of mysterious Iceland!</p>
<p>Scarcely were we fairly on shore when there appeared before us a man of
excellent appearance, wearing the costume of a military officer. He was,
however, but a civil servant, a magistrate, the governor of the
island—Baron Trampe. The Professor knew whom he had to deal with. He
therefore handed him the letters from Copenhagen, and a brief
conversation in Danish followed, to which I of course was a stranger,
and for a very good reason, for I did not know the language in which
they conversed. I afterwards heard, however, that Baron Trampe placed
himself entirely at the beck and call of Professor Hardwigg.</p>
<p>My uncle was most graciously received by M. Finsen, the mayor, who as
far as costume went, was quite as military as the governor, but also
from character and occupation quite as pacific. As for his coadjutor, M.
Pictursson, he was absent on an episcopal visit to the northern portion
of the diocese. We were therefore compelled to defer the pleasure of
being presented to him. His absence was, however, more than compensated
by the presence of M. Fridriksson, professor of natural science in the
college of Reykjavik, a man of invaluable ability. This modest scholar
spoke no languages save Icelandic and Latin. When, therefore, he
addressed himself to me in the language of Horace, we at once came to
understand one another. He was, in fact, the only person that I did
thoroughly understand during the whole period of my residence in this
benighted island.</p>
<p>Out of three rooms of which his house was composed, two were placed at
our service, and in a few hours we were installed with all our baggage,
the amount of which rather astonished the simple inhabitants of
Reykjavik.</p>
<p>"Now, Harry," said my uncle, rubbing his hands, "an goes well, the worse
difficulty is now over."</p>
<p>"How the worse difficulty over?" I cried in fresh amazement.</p>
<p>"Doubtless. Here we are in Iceland. Nothing more remains but to descend
into the bowels of the earth."</p>
<p>"Well, sir, to a certain extent you are right. We have only to go
down—but, as far as I am concerned, that is not the question. I want to
know how we are to get up again."</p>
<p>"That is the least part of the business, and does not in any way trouble
me. In the meantime, there is not an hour to lose. I am about to visit
the public library. Very likely I may find there some manuscripts from
the hand of Saknussemm. I shall be glad to consult them."</p>
<p>"In the meanwhile," I replied, "I will take a walk through the town.
Will you not likewise do so?"</p>
<p>"I feel no interest in the subject," said my uncle. "What for me is
curious in this island, is not what is above the surface, but what is
below."</p>
<p>I bowed by way of reply, put on my hat and furred cloak, and went out.</p>
<p>It was not an easy matter to lose oneself in the two streets of
Reykjavik; I had therefore no need to ask my way. The town lies on a
flat and marshy plain, between two hills. A vast field of lava skirts it
on one side, falling away in terraces towards the sea. On the other hand
is the large bay of Faxa, bordered on the north by the enormous glacier
of Sneffels, and in which bay the <i>Valkyrie</i> was then the only vessel at
anchor. Generally there were one or two English or French gunboats, to
watch and protect the fisheries in the offing. They were now, however,
absent on duty.</p>
<p>The longest of the streets of Reykjavik runs parallel to the shore. In
this street the merchants and traders live in wooden huts made with
beams of wood, painted red—mere log huts, such as you find in the wilds
of America. The other street, situated more to the west, runs toward a
little lake between the residences of the bishop and the other
personages not engaged in commerce.</p>
<p>I had soon seen all I wanted of these weary and dismal thoroughfares.
Here and there was a strip of discolored turf, like an old worn-out bit
of woolen carpet; and now and then a bit of kitchen garden, in which
grew potatoes, cabbage, and lettuce, almost diminutive enough to suggest
the idea of Lilliput.</p>
<p>In the centre of the new commercial street, I found the public cemetery,
enclosed by an earthen wall. Though not very large, it appeared not
likely to be filled for centuries. From hence I went to the house of the
Governor—a mere hut in comparison with the Mansion House of
Hamburg—but a palace alongside the other Icelandic houses. Between the
little lake and the town was the church, built in simple Protestant
style, and composed of calcined stones, thrown up by volcanic action. I
have not the slightest doubt that in high winds its red tiles were blown
out, to the great annoyance of the pastor and congregation. Upon an
eminence close at hand was the national school, in which were taught
Hebrew, English, French, and Danish.</p>
<p>In three hours my tour was complete. The general impression upon my mind
was sadness. No trees, no vegetation, so to speak—on all sides volcanic
peaks—the huts of turf and earth—more like roofs than houses. Thanks
to the heat of these residences, grass grows on the roof, which grass is
carefully cut for hay. I saw but few inhabitants during my excursion,
but I met a crowd on the beach, drying, salting and loading codfish, the
principal article of exportation. The men appeared robust but heavy;
fair-haired like Germans, but of pensive mien—exiles of a higher scale
in the ladder of humanity than the Eskimos, but, I thought, much more
unhappy, since with superior perceptions they are compelled to live
within the limits of the Polar Circle.</p>
<p>Sometimes they gave vent to a convulsive laugh, but by no chance did
they smile. Their costume consists of a coarse capote of black wool,
known in Scandinavian countries as the "vadmel," a broad-brimmed hat,
trousers of red serge, and a piece of leather tied with strings for a
shoe—a coarse kind of moccasin. The women, though sad-looking and
mournful, had rather agreeable features, without much expression. They
wear a bodice and petticoat of somber vadmel. When unmarried they wear a
little brown knitted cap over a crown of plaited hair; but when married,
they cover their heads with a colored handkerchief, over which they tie
a white scarf.</p>
<hr style="width: 65%;"/>
<h2 id="pgepubid00014"><a id="CHAPTER_7"/>CHAPTER 7</h2>
<h4 id="pgepubid00015">CONVERSATION AND DISCOVERY</h4>
<p>When I returned, dinner was ready. This meal was devoured by my worthy
relative with avidity and voracity. His shipboard diet had turned his
interior into a perfect gulf. The repast, which was more Danish than
Icelandic, was in itself nothing, but the excessive hospitality of our
host made us enjoy it doubly.</p>
<p>The conversation turned upon scientific matters, and M. Fridriksson
asked my uncle what he thought of the public library.</p>
<p>"Library, sir?" cried my uncle; "it appears to me a collection of
useless odd volumes, and a beggarly amount of empty shelves."</p>
<p>"What!" cried M. Fridriksson; "why, we have eight thousand volumes of
most rare and valuable works—some in the Scandinavian language, besides
all the new publications from Copenhagen."</p>
<p>"Eight thousand volumes, my dear sir—why, where are they?" cried my
uncle.</p>
<p>"Scattered over the country, Professor Hardwigg. We are very studious,
my dear sir, though we do live in Iceland. Every farmer, every laborer,
every fisherman can both read and write—and we think that books instead
of being locked up in cupboards, far from the sight of students, should
be distributed as widely as possible. The books of our library are
therefore passed from hand to hand without returning to the library
shelves perhaps for years."</p>
<p>"Then when foreigners visit you, there is nothing for them to see?"</p>
<p>"Well, sir, foreigners have their own libraries, and our first
consideration is, that our humbler classes should be highly educated.
Fortunately, the love of study is innate in the Icelandic people. In
1816 we founded a Literary Society and Mechanics' Institute; many
foreign scholars of eminence are honorary members; we publish books
destined to educate our people, and these books have rendered valuable
services to our country. Allow me to have the honor, Professor Hardwigg,
to enroll you as an honorary member?"</p>
<p>My uncle, who already belonged to nearly every literary and scientific
institution in Europe, immediately yielded to the amiable wishes of good
M. Fridriksson.</p>
<p>"And now," he said, after many expressions of gratitude and good will,
"if you will tell me what books you expected to find, perhaps I may be
of some assistance to you."</p>
<p>I watched my uncle keenly. For a minute or two he hesitated, as if
unwilling to speak; to speak openly was, perhaps, to unveil his
projects. Nevertheless, after some reflection, he made up his mind.</p>
<p>"Well, M. Fridriksson," he said in an easy, unconcerned kind of way, "I
was desirous of ascertaining, if among other valuable works, you had any
of the learned Arne Saknussemm."</p>
<p>"Arne Saknussemm!" cried the Professor of Reykjavik; "you speak of one
of the most distinguished scholars of the sixteenth century, of the
great naturalist, the great alchemist, the great traveler."</p>
<p>"Exactly so."</p>
<p>"One of the most distinguished men connected with Icelandic science and
literature."</p>
<p>"As you say, sir—"</p>
<p>"A man illustrious above all."</p>
<p>"Yes, sir, all this is true, but his works?"</p>
<p>"We have none of them."</p>
<p>"Not in Iceland?"</p>
<p>"There are none in Iceland or elsewhere," answered the other, sadly.</p>
<p>"Why so?"</p>
<p>"Because Arne Saknussemm was persecuted for heresy, and in 1573 his
works were publicly burnt at Copenhagen, by the hands of the common
hangman."</p>
<p>"Very good! capital!" murmured my uncle, to the great astonishment of
the worthy Icelander.</p>
<p>"You said, sir—"</p>
<p>"Yes, yes, all is clear, I see the link in the chain; everything is
explained, and I now understand why Arne Saknussemm, put out of court,
forced to hide his magnificent discoveries, was compelled to conceal
beneath the veil of an incomprehensible cryptograph, the secret—"</p>
<p>"What secret?"</p>
<p>"A secret—which," stammered my uncle.</p>
<p>"Have you discovered some wonderful manuscript?" cried M. Fridriksson.</p>
<p>"No! no, I was carried away by my enthusiasm. A mere supposition."</p>
<p>"Very good, sir. But, really, to turn to another subject, I hope you
will not leave our island without examining into its mineralogical
riches."</p>
<p>"Well, the fact is, I am rather late. So many learned men have been here
before me."</p>
<p>"Yes, yes, but there is still much to be done," cried M. Fridriksson.</p>
<p>"You think so," said my uncle, his eyes twinkling with hidden
satisfaction.</p>
<p>"Yes, you have no idea how many unknown mountains, glaciers, volcanoes
there are which remain to be studied. Without moving from where we sit,
I can show you one. Yonder on the edge of the horizon, you see
Sneffels."</p>
<p>"Oh yes, Sneffels," said my uncle.</p>
<p>"One of the most curious volcanoes in existence, the crater of which has
been rarely visited."</p>
<p>"Extinct?"</p>
<p>"Extinct, any time these five hundred years," was the ready reply.</p>
<p>"Well," said my uncle, who dug his nails into his flesh, and pressed his
knees tightly together to prevent himself leaping up with joy. "I have a
great mind to begin my studies with an examination of the geological
mysteries of this Mount Seffel—Feisel—what do you call it?"</p>
<p>"Sneffels, my dear sir."</p>
<p>This portion of the conversation took place in Latin, and I therefore
understood all that had been said. I could scarcely keep my countenance
when I found my uncle so cunningly concealing his delight and
satisfaction. I must confess that his artful grimaces, put on to conceal
his happiness, made him look like a new Mephistopheles.</p>
<p>"Yes, yes," he continued, "your proposition delights me. I will endeavor
to climb to the summit of Sneffels, and, if possible, will descend into
its crater."</p>
<p>"I very much regret," continued M. Fridriksson, "that my occupation will
entirely preclude the possibility of my accompanying you. It would have
been both pleasurable and profitable if I could have spared the time."</p>
<p>"No, no, a thousand times no," cried my uncle. "I do not wish to disturb
the serenity of any man. I thank you, however, with all my heart. The
presence of one so learned as yourself, would no doubt have been most
useful, but the duties of your office and profession before everything."</p>
<p>In the innocence of his simple heart, our host did not perceive the
irony of these remarks.</p>
<p>"I entirely approve your project," continued the Icelander after some
further remarks. "It is a good idea to begin by examining this volcano.
You will make a harvest of curious observations. In the first place, how
do you propose to get to Sneffels?"</p>
<p>"By sea. I shall cross the bay. Of course that is the most rapid route."</p>
<p>"Of course. But still it cannot be done."</p>
<p>"Why?"</p>
<p>"We have not an available boat in all Reykjavik," replied the other.</p>
<p>"What is to be done?"</p>
<p>"You must go by land along the coast. It is longer, but much more
interesting."</p>
<p>"Then I must have a guide."</p>
<p>"Of course; and I have your very man."</p>
<p>"Somebody on whom I can depend."</p>
<p>"Yes, an inhabitant of the peninsula on which Sneffels is situated. He
is a very shrewd and worthy man, with whom you will be pleased. He
speaks Danish like a Dane."</p>
<p>"When can I see him—today?"</p>
<p>"No, tomorrow; he will not be here before."</p>
<p>"Tomorrow be it," replied my uncle, with a deep sigh.</p>
<p>The conversation ended by compliments on both sides. During the dinner
my uncle had learned much as to the history of Arne Saknussemm, the
reasons for his mysterious and hieroglyphical document. He also became
aware that his host would not accompany him on his adventurous
expedition, and that next day we should have a guide.</p>
<hr style="width: 65%;"/>
<h2 id="pgepubid00016"><a id="CHAPTER_8"/>CHAPTER 8</h2>
<h4 id="pgepubid00017">THE EIDER-DOWN HUNTER—OFF AT LAST</h4>
<p>That evening I took a brief walk on the shore near Reykjavik, after
which I returned to an early sleep on my bed of coarse planks, where I
slept the sleep of the just. When I awoke I heard my uncle speaking
loudly in the next room. I rose hastily and joined him. He was talking
in Danish with a man of tall stature, and of perfectly Herculean build.
This man appeared to be possessed of very great strength. His eyes,
which started rather prominently from a very large head, the face
belonging to which was simple and naive, appeared very quick and
intelligent. Very long hair, which even in England would have been
accounted exceedingly red, fell over his athletic shoulders. This native
of Iceland was active and supple in appearance, though he scarcely moved
his arms, being in fact one of those men who despise the habit of
gesticulation common to southern people.</p>
<p>Everything in this man's manner revealed a calm and phlegmatic
temperament. There was nothing indolent about him, but his appearance
spoke of tranquillity. He was one of those who never seemed to expect
anything from anybody, who liked to work when he thought proper, and
whose philosophy nothing could astonish or trouble.</p>
<p>I began to comprehend his character, simply from the way in which he
listened to the wild and impassioned verbiage of my worthy uncle. While
the excellent Professor spoke sentence after sentence, he stood with
folded arms, utterly still, motionless to all my uncle's gesticulations.
When he wanted to say No he moved his head from left to right; when he
acquiesced he nodded, so slightly that you could scarcely see the
undulation of his head. This economy of motion was carried to the length
of avarice.</p>
<p>Judging from his appearance I should have been a long time before I had
suspected him to be what he was, a mighty hunter. Certainly his manner
was not likely to frighten the game. How, then, did he contrive to get
at his prey?</p>
<p>My surprise was slightly modified when I knew that this tranquil and
solemn personage was only a hunter of the eider duck, the down of which
is, after all, the greatest source of the Icelanders' wealth.</p>
<p>In the early days of summer, the female of the eider, a pretty sort of
duck, builds its nest amid the rocks of the fjords—the name given to
all narrow gulfs in Scandinavian countries—with which every part of the
island is indented. No sooner has the eider duck made her nest than she
lines the inside of it with the softest down from her breast. Then comes
the hunter or trader, taking away the nest, the poor bereaved female
begins her task over again, and this continues as long as any eider down
is to be found.</p>
<p>When she can find no more the male bird sets to work to see what he can
do. As, however, his down is not so soft, and has therefore no
commercial value, the hunter does not take the trouble to rob him of his
nest lining. The nest is accordingly finished, the eggs are laid, the
little ones are born, and next year the harvest of eider down is again
collected.</p>
<p>Now, as the eider duck never selects steep rocks or aspects to build its
nest, but rather sloping and low cliffs near to the sea, the Icelandic
hunter can carry on his trade operations without much difficulty. He is
like a farmer who has neither to plow, to sow, nor to harrow, only to
collect his harvest.</p>
<p>This grave, sententious, silent person, as phlegmatic as an Englishman
on the French stage, was named Hans Bjelke. He had called upon us in
consequence of the recommendation of M. Fridriksson. He was, in fact,
our future guide. It struck me that had I sought the world over, I could
not have found a greater contradiction to my impulsive uncle.</p>
<p>They, however, readily understood one another. Neither of them had any
thought about money; one was ready to take all that was offered him, the
other ready to offer anything that was asked. It may readily be
conceived, then, that an understanding was soon come to between them.</p>
<p>Now, the understanding was, that he was to take us to the village of
Stapi, situated on the southern slope of the peninsula of Sneffels, at
the very foot of the volcano. Hans, the guide, told us the distance was
about twenty-two miles, a journey which my uncle supposed would take
about two days.</p>
<p>But when my uncle came to understand that they were Danish miles, of
eight thousand yards each, he was obliged to be more moderate in his
ideas, and, considering the horrible roads we had to follow, to allow
eight or ten days for the journey.</p>
<p>Four horses were prepared for us, two to carry the baggage, and two to
bear the important weight of myself and uncle. Hans declared that
nothing ever would make him climb on the back of any animal. He knew
every inch of that part of the coast, and promised to take us the very
shortest way.</p>
<p>His engagement with my uncle was by no means to cease with our arrival
at Stapi; he was further to remain in his service during the whole time
required for the completion of his scientific investigations, at the
fixed salary of three rix-dollars a week, being exactly fourteen
shillings and twopence, minus one farthing, English currency. One
stipulation, however, was made by the guide—the money was to be paid to
him every Saturday night, failing which, his engagement was at an end.</p>
<p>The day of our departure was fixed. My uncle wished to hand the
eider-down hunter an advance, but he refused in one emphatic word—</p>
<p>"Efter."</p>
<p>Which being translated from Icelandic into plain English means—"After."</p>
<p>The treaty concluded, our worthy guide retired without another word.</p>
<p>"A splendid fellow," said my uncle; "only he little suspects the
marvelous part he is about to play in the history of the world."</p>
<p>"You mean, then," I cried in amazement, "that he should accompany us?"</p>
<p>"To the interior of the earth, yes," replied my uncle. "Why not?"</p>
<p>There were yet forty-eight hours to elapse before we made our final
start. To my great regret, our whole time was taken up in making
preparations for our journey. All our industry and ability were devoted
to packing every object in the most advantageous manner—the instruments
on one side, the arms on the other, the tools here and the provisions
there. There were, in fact, four distinct groups.</p>
<p>The instruments were of course of the best manufacture:</p>
<p>1. A centigrade thermometer of Eigel, counting up to 150 degrees, which
to me did not appear half enough—or too much. Too hot by half, if the
degree of heat was to ascend so high—in which case we should certainly
be cooked—not enough, if we wanted to ascertain the exact temperature
of springs or metal in a state of fusion.</p>
<p>2. A manometer worked by compressed air, an instrument used to ascertain
the upper atmospheric pressure on the level of the ocean. Perhaps a
common barometer would not have done as well, the atmospheric pressure
being likely to increase in proportion as we descended below the surface
of the earth.</p>
<p>3. A first-class chronometer made by Boissonnas, of Geneva, set at the
meridian of Hamburg, from which Germans calculate, as the English do
from Greenwich, and the French from Paris.</p>
<p>4. Two compasses, one for horizontal guidance, the other to ascertain
the dip.</p>
<p>5. A night glass.</p>
<p>6. Two Ruhmkorff coils, which, by means of a current of electricity,
would ensure us a very excellent, easily carried, and certain means of
obtaining light.</p>
<p>7. A voltaic battery on the newest principle.<a id="FNanchor_1_1"/><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="1187296021194714223_18857-h-0.htm.xhtml#Footnote_1_1">[1]</a></p>
<div class="footnote"><p><a id="Footnote_1_1"/><a href="1187296021194714223_18857-h-0.htm.xhtml#FNanchor_1_1" class="pginternal"><span class="label">[1]</span></a> Thermometer (<i>thermos</i>, and <i>metron</i>, measure); an
instrument for measuring the temperature of the air.—Manometer
(<i>manos</i>,and <i>metron</i>, measure); an instrument to show the density or
rarity of gases.—Chronometer (<i>chronos</i>. time, and <i>metros</i>, measure) a
time measurer, or superior watch—Ruhmkorff's coil, an instrument for
producing currents of induced electricity of great intensity. It
consists of a coil of copper wire, insulated by being covered with silk,
surrounded by another coil of fine wire, also insulated, in which a
momentary current is induced when a current is passed through the inner
coil from a voltaic battery. When the apparatus is in action, the gas
becomes luminous, and produces a white and continued light. The battery
and wire are carried in a leather bag, which the traveler fastens by a
strap to his shoulders. The lantern is in front, and enables the
benighted wanderer to see in the most profound obscurity. He may venture
without fear of explosion into the midst of the most inflammable gases,
and the lantern will burn beneath the deepest waters. H. D. Ruhmkorff,
an able and learned chemist, discovered the induction coil. In 1864 he
won the quinquennial French prize of £2,000 for this ingenious
application of electricity—A voltaic battery, so called from Volta, its
designer, is an apparatus consisting of a series of metal plates
arranged in pairs and subjected to the action of saline solutions for
producing currents of electricity.</p></div>
<p>Our arms consisted of two rifles, with two revolving six-shooters. Why
these arms were provided it was impossible for me to say. I had every
reason to believe that we had neither wild beasts nor savage natives to
fear. My uncle, on the other hand, was quite as devoted to his arsenal
as to his collection of instruments, and above all was very careful with
his provision of fulminating or gun cotton, warranted to keep in any
climate, and of which the expansive force was known to be greater than
that of ordinary gunpowder.</p>
<p>Our tools consisted of two pickaxes, two crowbars, a silken ladder,
three iron-shod Alpine poles, a hatchet, a hammer, a dozen wedges, some
pointed pieces of iron, and a quantity of strong rope. You may conceive
that the whole made a tolerable parcel, especially when I mention that
the ladder itself was three hundred feet long!</p>
<p>Then there came the important question of provisions. The hamper was not
very large but tolerably satisfactory, for I knew that in concentrated
essence of meat and biscuit there was enough to last six months. The
only liquid provided by my uncle was Schiedam. Of water, not a drop. We
had, however, an ample supply of gourds, and my uncle counted on finding
water, and enough to fill them, as soon as we commenced our downward
journey. My remarks as to the temperature, the quality, and even as to
the possibility of none being found, remained wholly without effect.</p>
<p>To make up the exact list of our traveling gear—for the guidance of
future travelers—add, that we carried a medicine and surgical chest
with all apparatus necessary for wounds, fractures and blows; lint,
scissors, lancets—in fact, a perfect collection of horrible looking
instruments; a number of vials containing ammonia, alcohol, ether,
Goulard water, aromatic vinegar, in fact, every possible and impossible
drug—finally, all the materials for working the Ruhmkorff coil!</p>
<p>My uncle had also been careful to lay in a goodly supply of tobacco,
several flasks of very fine gunpowder, boxes of tinder, besides a large
belt crammed full of notes and gold. Good boots rendered watertight were
to be found to the number of six in the tool box.</p>
<p>"My boy, with such clothing, with such boots, and such general
equipment," said my uncle, in a state of rapturous delight, "we may hope
to travel far."</p>
<p>It took a whole day to put all these matters in order. In the evening we
dined with Baron Trampe, in company with the Mayor of Reykjavik, and
Doctor Hyaltalin, the great medical man of Iceland. M. Fridriksson was
not present, and I was afterwards sorry to hear that he and the governor
did not agree on some matters connected with the administration of the
island. Unfortunately, the consequence was, that I did not understand a
word that was said at dinner—a kind of semiofficial reception. One
thing I can say, my uncle never left off speaking.</p>
<p>The next day our labor came to an end. Our worthy host delighted my
uncle, Professor Hardwigg, by giving him a good map of Iceland, a most
important and precious document for a mineralogist.</p>
<p>Our last evening was spent in a long conversation with M. Fridriksson,
whom I liked very much—the more that I never expected to see him or
anyone else again. After this agreeable way of spending an hour or so, I
tried to sleep. In vain; with the exception of a few dozes, my night was
miserable.</p>
<p>At five o'clock in the morning I was awakened from the only real half
hour's sleep of the night by the loud neighing of horses under my
window. I hastily dressed myself and went down into the street. Hans was
engaged in putting the finishing stroke to our baggage, which he did in
a silent, quiet way that won my admiration, and yet he did it admirably
well. My uncle wasted a great deal of breath in giving him directions,
but worthy Hans took not the slightest notice of his words.</p>
<p>At six o'clock all our preparations were completed, and M. Fridriksson
shook hands heartily with us. My uncle thanked him warmly, in the
Icelandic language, for his kind hospitality, speaking truly from the
heart.</p>
<p>As for myself I put together a few of my best Latin phrases and paid him
the highest compliments I could. This fraternal and friendly duty
performed, we sallied forth and mounted our horses.</p>
<p>As soon as we were quite ready, M. Fridriksson advanced, and by way of
farewell, called after me in the words of Virgil—words which appeared
to have been made for us, travelers starting for an uncertain
destination:</p>
<p>"Et quacunque viam dederit fortuna sequamur."</p>
<p>("And whichsoever way thou goest, may fortune follow!")</p>
<hr style="width: 65%;"/>
<h2 id="pgepubid00018"><a id="CHAPTER_9"/>CHAPTER 9</h2>
<h4 id="pgepubid00019">OUR START—WE MEET WITH ADVENTURES BY THE WAY</h4>
<p>The weather was overcast but settled, when we commenced our adventurous
and perilous journey. We had neither to fear fatiguing heat nor
drenching rain. It was, in fact, real tourist weather.</p>
<p>As there was nothing I liked better than horse exercise, the pleasure of
riding through an unknown country caused the early part of our
enterprise to be particularly agreeable to me.</p>
<p>I began to enjoy the exhilarating delight of traveling, a life of
desire, gratification and liberty. The truth is, that my spirits rose so
rapidly, that I began to be indifferent to what had once appeared to be
a terrible journey.</p>
<p>"After all," I said to myself, "what do I risk? Simply to take a journey
through a curious country, to climb a remarkable mountain, and if the
worst comes to the worst, to descend into the crater of an extinct
volcano."</p>
<p>There could be no doubt that this was all this terrible Saknussemm had
done. As to the existence of a gallery, or of subterraneous passages
leading into the interior of the earth, the idea was simply absurd, the
hallucination of a distempered imagination. All, then, that may be
required of me I will do cheerfully, and will create no difficulty.</p>
<p>It was just before we left Reykjavik that I came to this decision.</p>
<p>Hans, our extraordinary guide, went first, walking with a steady, rapid,
unvarying step. Our two horses with the luggage followed of their own
accord, without requiring whip or spur. My uncle and I came behind,
cutting a very tolerable figure upon our small but vigorous animals.</p>
<p>Iceland is one of the largest islands in Europe. It contains thirty
thousand square miles of surface, and has about seventy thousand
inhabitants. Geographers have divided it into four parts, and we had to
cross the southwest quarter which in the vernacular is called Sudvestr
Fjordungr.</p>
<p>Hans, on taking his departure from Reykjavik, had followed the line of
the sea. We took our way through poor and sparse meadows, which made a
desperate effort every year to show a little green. They very rarely
succeed in a good show of yellow.</p>
<p>The rugged summits of the rocky hills were dimly visible on the edge of
the horizon, through the misty fogs; every now and then some heavy
flakes of snow showed conspicuous in the morning light, while certain
lofty and pointed rocks were first lost in the grey low clouds, their
summits clearly visible above, like jagged reefs rising from a troublous
sea.</p>
<p>Every now and then a spur of rock came down through the arid ground,
leaving us scarcely room to pass. Our horses, however, appeared not only
well acquainted with the country, but by a kind of instinct, knew which
was the best road. My uncle had not even the satisfaction of urging
forward his steed by whip, spur, or voice. It was utterly useless to
show any signs of impatience. I could not help smiling to see him look
so big on his little horse; his long legs now and then touching the
ground made him look like a six-footed centaur.</p>
<p>"Good beast, good beast," he would cry. "I assure you, that I begin to
think no animal is more intelligent than an Icelandic horse. Snow,
tempest, impracticable roads, rocks, icebergs—nothing stops him. He is
brave; he is sober; he is safe; he never makes a false step; never
glides or slips from his path. I dare to say that if any river, any
fjord has to be crossed—and I have no doubt there will be many—you
will see him enter the water without hesitation like an amphibious
animal, and reach the opposite side in safety. We must
not, however, attempt to hurry him; we must allow him to have his own
way, and I will undertake to say that between us we shall do our ten
leagues a day."</p>
<p>"We may do so," was my reply, "but what about our worthy guide?"</p>
<p>"I have not the slightest anxiety about him: that sort of people go
ahead without knowing even what they are about. Look at Hans. He moves
so little that it is impossible for him to become fatigued. Besides, if
he were to complain of weariness, he could have the loan of my horse. I
should have a violent attack of the cramp if I were not to have some
sort of exercise. My arms are right—but my legs are getting a little
stiff."</p>
<p>All this while we were advancing at a rapid pace. The country we had
reached was already nearly a desert. Here and there could be seen an
isolated farm, some solitary bur, or Icelandic house, built of wood,
earth, fragments of lava—looking like beggars on the highway of life.
These wretched and miserable huts excited in us such pity that we felt
half disposed to leave alms at every door. In this country there are no
roads, paths are nearly unknown, and vegetation, poor as it was, slowly
as it reached perfection, soon obliterated all traces of the few
travelers who passed from place to place.</p>
<p>Nevertheless, this division of the province, situated only a few miles
from the capital, is considered one of the best cultivated and most
thickly peopled in all Iceland. What, then, must be the state of the
less known and more distant parts of the island? After traveling fully
half a Danish mile, we had met neither a farmer at the door of his hut,
nor even a wandering shepherd with his wild and savage flock.</p>
<p>A few stray cows and sheep were only seen occasionally. What, then, must
we expect when we come to the upheaved regions—to the districts broken
and roughened from volcanic eruptions and subterraneous commotions?</p>
<p>We were to learn this all in good time. I saw, however, on consulting
the map, that we avoided a good deal of this rough country, by following
the winding and desolate shores of the sea. In reality, the great
volcanic movement of the island, and all its attendant phenomena, are
concentrated in the interior of the island; there, horizontal layers or
strata of rocks, piled one upon the other, eruptions of basaltic origin,
and streams of lava, have given this country a kind of supernatural
reputation.</p>
<p>Little did I expect, however, the spectacle which awaited us when we
reached the peninsula of Sneffels, where agglomerations of nature's
ruins form a kind of terrible chaos.</p>
<p>Some two hours or more after we had left the city of Reykjavik, we
reached the little town called Aoalkirkja, or the principal church. It
consists simply of a few houses—not what in England or Germany we
should call a hamlet.</p>
<p>Hans stopped here one half hour. He shared our frugal breakfast,
answered Yes, and No to my uncle's questions as to the nature of the
road, and at last when asked where we were to pass the night was as
laconic as usual.</p>
<p>"Gardar!" was his one-worded reply.</p>
<p>I took occasion to consult the map, to see where Gardar was to be found.
After looking keenly I found a small town of that name on the borders of
the Hvalfjord, about four miles from Reykjavik. I pointed this out to my
uncle, who made a very energetic grimace.</p>
<p>"Only four miles out of twenty-two? Why it is only a little walk."</p>
<p>He was about to make some energetic observation to the guide, but Hans,
without taking the slightest notice of him, went in front of the horses,
and walked ahead with the same imperturbable phlegm he had always
exhibited.</p>
<p>Three hours later, still traveling over those apparently interminable
and sandy prairies, we were compelled to go round the Kollafjord, an
easier and shorter cut than crossing the gulfs. Shortly after we entered
a place of communal jurisdiction called Ejulberg, and the clock of which
would then have struck twelve, if any Icelandic church had been rich
enough to possess so valuable and useful an article. These sacred
edifices are, however, very much like these people, who do without
watches—and never miss them.</p>
<p>Here the horses were allowed to take some rest and refreshment, then
following a narrow strip of shore between high rocks and the sea, they
took us without further halt to the Aoalkirkja of Brantar, and after
another mile to Saurboer Annexia, a chapel of ease, situated on the
southern bank of the Hvalfjord.</p>
<p>It was four o'clock in the evening and we had traveled four Danish
miles, about equal to twenty English.</p>
<p>The fjord was in this place about half a mile in width. The sweeping and
broken waves came rolling in upon the pointed rocks; the gulf was
surrounded by rocky walls—a mighty cliff, three thousand feet in
height, remarkable for its brown strata, separated here and there by
beds of tufa of a reddish hue. Now, whatever may have been the
intelligence of our horses, I had not the slightest reliance upon them,
as a means of crossing a stormy arm of the sea. To ride over salt water
upon the back of a little horse seemed to me absurd.</p>
<p>"If they are really intelligent," I said to myself, "they will certainly
not make the attempt. In any case, I shall trust rather to my own
intelligence than theirs."</p>
<p>But my uncle was in no humor to wait. He dug his heels into the sides of
his steed, and made for the shore. His horse went to the very edge of
the water, sniffed at the approaching wave and retreated.</p>
<p>My uncle, who was, sooth to say, quite as obstinate as the beast he
bestrode, insisted on his making the desired advance. This attempt was
followed by a new refusal on the part of the horse which quietly shook
his head. This demonstration of rebellion was followed by a volley of
words and a stout application of whipcord; also followed by kicks on the
part of the horse, which threw its head and heels upwards and tried to
throw his rider. At length the sturdy little pony, spreading out his
legs, in a stiff and ludicrous attitude, got from under the Professor's
legs, and left him standing, with both feet on a separate stone, like
the Colossus of Rhodes.</p>
<p>"Wretched animal!" cried my uncle, suddenly transformed into a foot
passenger—and as angry and ashamed as a dismounted cavalry officer on
the field of battle.</p>
<p>"Farja," said the guide, tapping him familiarly on the shoulder.</p>
<p>"What, a ferry boat!"</p>
<p>"Der," answered Hans, pointing to where lay the boat in
question—"there."</p>
<p>"Well," I cried, quite delighted with the information; "so it is."</p>
<p>"Why did you not say so before," cried my uncle; "why not start at
once?"</p>
<p>"Tidvatten," said the guide.</p>
<p>"What does he say?" I asked, considerably puzzled by the delay and the
dialogue.</p>
<p>"He says tide," replied my uncle, translating the Danish word for my
information.</p>
<p>"Of course I understand—we must wait till the tide serves."</p>
<p>"For bida?" asked my uncle.</p>
<p>"Ja," replied Hans.</p>
<p>My uncle frowned, stamped his feet and then followed the horses to where
the boat lay.</p>
<p>I thoroughly understood and appreciated the necessity for waiting,
before crossing the fjord, for that moment when the sea at its highest
point is in a state of slack water. As neither the ebb nor flow can then
be felt, the ferry boat was in no danger of being carried out to sea, or
dashed upon the rocky coast.</p>
<p>The favorable moment did not come until six o'clock in the evening. Then
my uncle, myself, and guide, two boatmen and the four horses got into a
very awkward flat-bottom boat. Accustomed as I had been to the steam
ferry boats of the Elbe, I found the long oars of the boatmen but sorry
means of locomotion. We were more than an hour in crossing the fjord;
but at length the passage was concluded without accident.</p>
<p>Half an hour later we reached Gardar.</p>
<hr style="width: 65%;"/>
<h2 id="pgepubid00020"><a id="CHAPTER_10"/>CHAPTER 10</h2>
<h4 id="pgepubid00021">TRAVELING IN ICELAND</h4>
<p>It ought, one would have thought, to have been night, even in the
sixty-fifth parallel of latitude; but still the nocturnal illumination
did not surprise me. For in Iceland, during the months of June and July,
the sun never sets.</p>
<p>The temperature, however, was very much lower than I expected. I was
cold, but even that did not affect me so much as ravenous hunger.
Welcome indeed, therefore, was the hut which hospitably opened its doors
to us.</p>
<p>It was merely the house of a peasant, but in the matter of hospitality,
it was worthy of being the palace of a king. As we alighted at the door
the master of the house came forward, held out his hand, and without any
further ceremony, signaled to us to follow him.</p>
<p>We followed him, for to accompany him was impossible. A long, narrow,
gloomy passage led into the interior of this habitation, made from beams
roughly squared by the ax. This passage gave ingress to every room. The
chambers were four in number—the kitchen, the workshop, where the
weaving was carried on, the general sleeping chamber of the family, and
the best room, to which strangers were especially invited. My uncle,
whose lofty stature had not been taken into consideration when the house
was built, contrived to knock his head against the beams of the roof.</p>
<p>We were introduced into our chamber, a kind of large room with a hard
earthen floor, and lighted by a window, the panes of which were made of
a sort of parchment from the intestines of sheep—very far from
transparent.</p>
<p>The bedding was composed of dry hay thrown into two long red wooden
boxes, ornamented with sentences painted in Icelandic. I really had no
idea that we should be made so comfortable. There was one objection to
the house, and that was, the very powerful odor of dried fish, of
macerated meat, and of sour milk, which three fragrances combined did
not at all suit my olfactory nerves.</p>
<p>As soon as we had freed ourselves from our heavy traveling costume, the
voice of our host was heard calling to us to come into the kitchen, the
only room in which the Icelanders ever make any fire, no matter how cold
it may be.</p>
<p>My uncle, nothing loath, hastened to obey this hospitable and friendly
invitation. I followed.</p>
<p>The kitchen chimney was made on an antique model. A large stone standing
in the middle of the room was the fireplace; above, in the roof, was a
hole for the smoke to pass through. This apartment was kitchen, parlor
and dining room all in one.</p>
<p>On our entrance, our worthy host, as if he had not seen us before,
advanced ceremoniously, uttered a word which means "be happy," and then
kissed both of us on the cheek.</p>
<p>His wife followed, pronounced the same word, with the same ceremonial,
then the husband and wife, placing their right hands upon their hearts,
bowed profoundly.</p>
<p>This excellent Icelandic woman was the mother of nineteen children, who,
little and big, rolled, crawled, and walked about in the midst of
volumes of smoke arising from the angular fireplace in the middle of the
room. Every now and then I could see a fresh white head, and a slightly
melancholy expression of countenance, peering at me through the vapor.</p>
<p>Both my uncle and myself, however, were very friendly with the whole
party, and before we were aware of it, there were three or four of these
little ones on our shoulders, as many on our boxes, and the rest hanging
about our legs. Those who could speak kept crying out saellvertu in
every possible and impossible key. Those who did not speak only made all
the more noise.</p>
<p>This concert was interrupted by the announcement of supper. At this
moment our worthy guide, the eider-duck hunter, came in after seeing to
the feeding and stabling of the horses—which consisted in letting them
loose to browse on the stunted green of the Icelandic prairies. There
was little for them to eat, but moss and some very dry and innutritious
grass; next day they were ready before the door, some time before we
were.</p>
<p>"Welcome," said Hans.</p>
<p>Then tranquilly, with the air of an automaton, without any more
expression in one kiss than another, he embraced the host and hostess
and their nineteen children.</p>
<p>This ceremony concluded to the satisfaction of all parties, we all sat
down to table, that is twenty-four of us, somewhat crowded. Those who
were best off had only two juveniles on their knees.</p>
<p>As soon, however, as the inevitable soup was placed on the table, the
natural taciturnity, common even to Icelandic babies, prevailed over all
else. Our host filled our plates with a portion of lichen soup of
Iceland moss, of by no means disagreeable flavor, an enormous lump of
fish floating in sour butter. After that there came some skyr, a kind of
curds and whey, served with biscuits and juniper-berry juice. To drink,
we had blanda, skimmed milk with water. I was hungry, so hungry, that by
way of dessert I finished up with a basin of thick oaten porridge.</p>
<p>As soon as the meal was over, the children disappeared, whilst the grown
people sat around the fireplace, on which was placed turf, heather, cow
dung and dried fish-bones. As soon as everybody was sufficiently warm, a
general dispersion took place, all retiring to their respective couches.
Our hostess offered to pull off our stockings and trousers, according to
the custom of the country, but as we graciously declined to be so
honored, she left us to our bed of dry fodder.</p>
<p>Next day, at five in the morning, we took our leave of these hospitable
peasants. My uncle had great difficulty in making them accept a
sufficient and proper remuneration.</p>
<p>Hans then gave the signal to start.</p>
<p>We had scarcely got a hundred yards from Gardar, when the character of
the country changed. The soil began to be marshy and boggy, and less
favorable to progress. To the right, the range of mountains was
prolonged indefinitely like a great system of natural fortifications, of
which we skirted the glacis. We met with numerous streams and rivulets
which it was necessary to ford, and that without wetting our baggage. As
we advanced, the deserted appearance increased, and yet now and then we
could see human shadows flitting in the distance. When a sudden turn of
the track brought us within easy reach of one of these specters, I felt
a sudden impulse of disgust at the sight of a swollen head, with shining
skin, utterly without hair, and whose repulsive and revolting wounds
could be seen through his rags. The unhappy wretches never came forward
to beg; on the contrary, they ran away; not so quick, however, but that
Hans was able to salute them with the universal saellvertu.</p>
<p>"Spetelsk," said he.</p>
<p>"A leper," explained my uncle.</p>
<p>The very sound of such a word caused a feeling of repulsion. The
horrible affliction known as leprosy, which has almost vanished before
the effects of modern science, is common in Iceland. It is not
contagious but hereditary, so that marriage is strictly prohibited to
these unfortunate creatures.</p>
<p>These poor lepers did not tend to enliven our journey, the scene of
which was inexpressibly sad and lonely. The very last tufts of grassy
vegetation appeared to die at our feet. Not a tree was to be seen,
except a few stunted willows about as big as blackberry bushes. Now and
then we watched a falcon soaring in the grey and misty air, taking his
flight towards warmer and sunnier regions. I could not help feeling a
sense of melancholy come over me. I sighed for my own Native Land, and
wished to be back with Gretchen.</p>
<p>We were compelled to cross several little fjords, and at last came to a
real gulf. The tide was at its height, and we were able to go over at
once, and reach the hamlet of Alftanes, about a mile farther.</p>
<p>That evening, after fording the Alfa and the Heta, two rivers rich in
trout and pike, we were compelled to pass the night in a deserted house,
worthy of being haunted by all the fays of Scandinavian mythology. The
King of Cold had taken up his residence there, and made us feel his
presence all night.</p>
<p>The following day was remarkable by its lack of any particular
incidents. Always the same damp and swampy soil; the same dreary
uniformity; the same sad and monotonous aspect of scenery. In the
evening, having accomplished the half of our projected journey, we slept
at the Annexia of Krosolbt.</p>
<p>For a whole mile we had under our feet nothing but lava. This
disposition of the soil is called <i>hraun</i>: the crumbled lava on the
surface was in some instances like ship cables stretched out
horizontally, in others coiled up in heaps; an immense field of lava
came from the neighboring mountains, all extinct volcanoes, but whose
remains showed what once they had been. Here and there could be made out
the steam from hot water springs.</p>
<p>There was no time, however, for us to take more than a cursory view of
these phenomena. We had to go forward with what speed we might. Soon the
soft and swampy soil again appeared under the feet of our horses, while
at every hundred yards we came upon one or more small lakes. Our journey
was now in a westerly direction; we had, in fact, swept round the great
bay of Faxa, and the twin white summits of Sneffels rose to the clouds
at a distance of less than five miles.</p>
<p>The horses now advanced rapidly. The accidents and difficulties of the
soil no longer checked them. I confess that fatigue began to tell
severely upon me; but my uncle was as firm and as hard as he had been on
the first day. I could not help admiring both the excellent Professor
and the worthy guide; for they appeared to regard this rugged expedition
as a mere walk!</p>
<p>On Saturday, the 20th June, at six o'clock in the evening, we reached
Budir, a small town picturesquely situated on the shore of the ocean;
and here the guide asked for his money. My uncle settled with him
immediately. It was now the family of Hans himself, that is to say, his
uncles, his cousins—german, who offered us hospitality. We were
exceedingly well received, and without taking too much advantage of the
goodness of these worthy people, I should have liked very much to have
rested with them after the fatigues of the journey. But my uncle, who
did not require rest, had no idea of anything of the kind; and despite
the fact that next day was Sunday, I was compelled once more to mount my
steed.</p>
<p>The soil was again affected by the neighborhood of the mountains, whose
granite peered out of the ground like tops of an old oak. We were
skirting the enormous base of the mighty volcano. My uncle never took
his eyes from off it; he could not keep from gesticulating, and looking
at it with a kind of sullen defiance as much as to say "That is the
giant I have made up my mind to conquer."</p>
<p>After four hours of steady traveling, the horses stopped of themselves
before the door of the presbytery of Stapi.</p>
<hr style="width: 65%;"/>
<h2 id="pgepubid00022"><a id="CHAPTER_11"/>CHAPTER 11</h2>
<h4 id="pgepubid00023">WE REACH MOUNT SNEFFELS—THE "REYKIR"</h4>
<p>Stapi is a town consisting of thirty huts, built on a large plain of
lava, exposed to the rays of the sun, reflected from the volcano. It
stretches its humble tenements along the end of a little fjord,
surrounded by a basaltic wall of the most singular character.</p>
<p>Basalt is a brown rock of igneous origin. It assumes regular forms,
which astonish by their singular appearance. Here we found Nature
proceeding geometrically, and working quite after a human fashion, as if
she had employed the plummet line, the compass and the rule. If
elsewhere she produces grand artistic effects by piling up huge masses
without order or connection—if elsewhere we see truncated cones,
imperfect pyramids, with an odd succession of lines; here, as if wishing
to give a lesson in regularity, and preceding the architects of the
early ages, she has erected a severe order of architecture, which
neither the splendors of Babylon nor the marvels of Greece ever
surpassed.</p>
<p>I had often heard of the Giant's Causeway in Ireland, and of Fingal's
Cave in one of the Hebrides, but the grand spectacle of a real basaltic
formation had never yet come before my eyes.</p>
<p>This at Stapi gave us an idea of one in all its wonderful beauty and
grace.</p>
<p>The wall of the fjord, like nearly the whole of the peninsula, consisted
of a series of vertical columns, in height about thirty feet. These
upright pillars of stone, of the finest proportions, supported an
archivault of horizontal columns which formed a kind of half-vaulted
roof above the sea. At certain intervals, and below this natural basin,
the eye was pleased and surprised by the sight of oval openings through
which the outward waves came thundering in volleys of foam. Some banks
of basalt, torn from their fastenings by the fury of the waves, lay
scattered on the ground like the ruins of an ancient temple—ruins
eternally young, over which the storms of ages swept without producing
any perceptible effect!</p>
<p>This was the last stage of our journey. Hans had brought us along with
fidelity and intelligence, and I began to feel somewhat more comfortable
when I reflected that he was to accompany us still farther on our way.</p>
<p>When we halted before the house of the Rector, a small and incommodious
cabin, neither handsome nor more comfortable than those of his
neighbors, I saw a man in the act of shoeing a horse, a hammer in his
hand, and a leathern apron tied round his waist.</p>
<p>"Be happy," said the eider-down hunter, using his national salutation in
his own language.</p>
<p>"God dag—good day!" replied the former, in excellent Danish.</p>
<p>"Kyrkoherde," cried Hans, turning round and introducing him to my uncle.</p>
<p>"The Rector," repeated the worthy Professor; "it appears, my dear Harry,
that this worthy man is the Rector, and is not above doing his own
work."</p>
<p>During the speaking of these words the guide intimated to the Kyrkoherde
what was the true state of the case. The good man, ceasing from his
occupation, gave a kind of halloo, upon which a tall woman, almost a
giantess, came out of the hut. She was at least six feet high, which in
that region is something considerable.</p>
<p>My first impression was one of horror. I thought she had come to give us
the Icelandic kiss. I had, however, nothing to fear, for she did not
even show much inclination to receive us into her house.</p>
<p>The room devoted to strangers appeared to me to be by far the worst in
the presbytery; it was narrow, dirty and offensive. There was, however,
no choice about the matter. The Rector had no notion of practicing the
usual cordial and antique hospitality. Far from it. Before the day was
over, I found we had to deal with a blacksmith, a fisherman, a hunter, a
carpenter, anything but a clergyman. It must be said in his favor that
we had caught him on a weekday; probably he appeared to greater
advantage on the Sunday.</p>
<p>These poor priests receive from the Danish Government a most
ridiculously inadequate salary, and collect one quarter of the tithe of
their parish—not more than sixty marks current, or about L3 10s.
sterling. Hence the necessity of working to live. In truth, we soon
found that our host did not count civility among the cardinal virtues.</p>
<p>My uncle soon became aware of the kind of man he had to deal with.
Instead of a worthy and learned scholar, he found a dull ill-mannered
peasant. He therefore resolved to start on his great expedition as soon
as possible. He did not care about fatigue, and resolved to spend a few
days in the mountains.</p>
<p>The preparations for our departure were made the very next day after our
arrival at Stapi; Hans now hired three Icelanders to take the place of
the horses—which could no longer carry our luggage. When, however,
these worthy islanders had reached the bottom of the crater, they were
to go back and leave us to ourselves. This point was settled before they
would agree to start.</p>
<p>On this occasion, my uncle partly confided in Hans, the eider-duck
hunter, and gave him to understand that it was his intention to continue
his exploration of the volcano to the last possible limits.</p>
<p>Hans listened calmly, and then nodded his head. To go there, or
elsewhere, to bury himself in the bowels of the earth, or to travel over
its summits, was all the same to him! As for me, amused and occupied by
the incidents of travel, I had begun to forget the inevitable future;
but now I was once more destined to realize the actual state of affairs.
What was to be done? Run away? But if I really had intended to leave
Professor Hardwigg to his fate, it should have been at Hamburg and not
at the foot of Sneffels.</p>
<p>One idea, above all others, began to trouble me: a very terrible idea,
and one calculated to shake the nerves of a man even less sensitive than
myself.</p>
<p>"Let us consider the matter," I said to myself; "we are going to ascend
the Sneffels mountain. Well and good. We are about to pay a visit to the
very bottom of the crater. Good, still. Others have done it and did not
perish from that course.</p>
<p>"That, however, is not the whole matter to be considered. If a road does
really present itself by which to descend into the dark and
subterraneous bowels of Mother Earth, if this thrice unhappy Saknussemm
has really told the truth, we shall be most certainly lost in the midst
of the labyrinth of subterraneous galleries of the volcano. Now, we have
no evidence to prove that Sneffels is really extinct. What proof have we
that an eruption is not shortly about to take place? Because the monster
has slept soundly since 1219, does it follow that he is never to wake?</p>
<p>"If he does wake what is to become of us?"</p>
<p>These were questions worth thinking about, and upon them I reflected
long and deeply. I could not lie down in search of sleep without
dreaming of eruptions. The more I thought, the more I objected to be
reduced to the state of dross and ashes.</p>
<p>I could stand it no longer; so I determined at last to submit the whole
case to my uncle, in the most adroit manner possible, and under the form
of some totally irreconcilable hypothesis.</p>
<p>I sought him. I laid before him my fears, and then drew back in order to
let him get his passion over at his ease.</p>
<p>"I have been thinking about the matter," he said, in the quietest tone
in the world.</p>
<p>What did he mean? Was he at last about to listen to the voice of reason?
Did he think of suspending his projects? It was almost too much
happiness to be true.</p>
<p>I however made no remark. In fact, I was only too anxious not to
interrupt him, and allowed him to reflect at his leisure. After some
moments he spoke out.</p>
<p>"I have been thinking about the matter," he resumed. "Ever since we have
been at Stapi, my mind has been almost solely occupied with the grave
question which has been submitted to me by yourself—for nothing would
be unwiser and more inconsistent than to act with imprudence."</p>
<p>"I heartily agree with you, my dear uncle," was my somewhat hopeful
rejoinder.</p>
<p>"It is now six hundred years since Sneffels has spoken, but though now
reduced to a state of utter silence, he may speak again. New volcanic
eruptions are always preceded by perfectly well-known phenomena. I have
closely examined the inhabitants of this region; I have carefully
studied the soil, and I beg to tell you emphatically, my dear Harry,
there will be no eruption at present."</p>
<p>As I listened to his positive affirmations, I was stupefied and could
say nothing.</p>
<p>"I see you doubt my word," said my uncle; "follow me."</p>
<p>I obeyed mechanically.</p>
<p>Leaving the presbytery, the Professor took a road through an opening in
the basaltic rock, which led far away from the sea. We were soon in open
country, if we could give such a name to a place all covered with
volcanic deposits. The whole land seemed crushed under the weight of
enormous stones—of trap, of basalt, of granite, of lava, and of all
other volcanic substances.</p>
<p>I could see many spouts of steam rising in the air. These white vapors,
called in the Icelandic language "reykir," come from hot water
fountains, and indicate by their violence the volcanic activity of the
soil. Now the sight of these appeared to justify my apprehension. I was,
therefore, all the more surprised and mortified when my uncle thus
addressed me.</p>
<p>"You see all this smoke, Harry, my boy?"</p>
<p>"Yes, sir."</p>
<p>"Well, as long as you see them thus, you have nothing to fear from the
volcano."</p>
<p>"How can that be?"</p>
<p>"Be careful to remember this," continued the Professor. "At the approach
of an eruption these spouts of vapor redouble their activity—to
disappear altogether during the period of volcanic eruption; for the
elastic fluids, no longer having the necessary tension, seek refuge in
the interior of the crater, instead of escaping through the fissures of
the earth. If, then, the steam remains in its normal or habitual state,
if their energy does not increase, and if you add to this, the remark
that the wind is not replaced by heavy atmospheric pressure and dead
calm, you may be quite sure that there is no fear of any immediate
eruption."</p>
<p>"But—"</p>
<p>"Enough, my boy. When science has sent forth her fiat—it is only to
hear and obey."</p>
<p>I came back to the house quite downcast and disappointed. My uncle had
completely defeated me with his scientific arguments. Nevertheless, I
had still one hope, and that was, when once we were at the bottom of the
crater, that it would be impossible in default of a gallery or tunnel,
to descend any deeper; and this, despite all the learned Saknussemms in
the world.</p>
<p>I passed the whole of the following night with a nightmare on my chest!
and, after unheard-of miseries and tortures, found myself in the very
depths of the earth, from which I was suddenly launched into planetary
space, under the form of an eruptive rock!</p>
<p>Next day, June 23d, Hans calmly awaited us outside the presbytery with
his three companions loaded with provisions, tools, and instruments. Two
iron-shod poles, two guns, and two large game bags, were reserved for my
uncle and myself. Hans, who was a man who never forgot even the minutest
precautions, had added to our baggage a large skin full of water, as an
addition to our gourds. This assured us water for eight days.</p>
<p>It was nine o'clock in the morning when we were quite ready. The rector
and his huge wife or servant, I never knew which, stood at the door to
see us off. They appeared to be about to inflict on us the usual final
kiss of the Icelanders. To our supreme astonishment their adieu took the
shape of a formidable bill, in which they even counted the use of the
pastoral house, really and truly the most abominable and dirty place I
ever was in. The worthy couple cheated and robbed us like a Swiss
innkeeper, and made us feel, by the sum we had to pay, the splendors of
their hospitality.</p>
<p>My uncle, however, paid without bargaining. A man who had made up his
mind to undertake a voyage into the Interior of the Earth, is not the
man to haggle over a few miserable rix-dollars.</p>
<p>This important matter settled, Hans gave the signal for departure, and
some few moments later we had left Stapi.</p>
<hr style="width: 65%;"/>
<h2 id="pgepubid00024"><a id="CHAPTER_12"/>CHAPTER 12</h2>
<h4 id="pgepubid00025">THE ASCENT OF MOUNT SNEFFELS</h4>
<p>The huge volcano which was the first stage of our daring experiment is
above five thousand feet high. Sneffels is the termination of a long
range of volcanic mountains, of a different character to the system of
the island itself. One of its peculiarities is its two huge pointed
summits. From whence we started it was impossible to make out the real
outlines of the peak against the grey field of sky. All we could
distinguish was a vast dome of white, which fell downwards from the head
of the giant.</p>
<p>The commencement of the great undertaking filled me with awe. Now that
we had actually started, I began to believe in the reality of the
undertaking!</p>
<p>Our party formed quite a procession. We walked in single file, preceded
by Hans, the imperturbable eider-duck hunter. He calmly led us by narrow
paths where two persons could by no possibility walk abreast.
Conversation was wholly impossible. We had all the more opportunity to
reflect and admire the awful grandeur of the scene around.</p>
<p>Beyond the extraordinary basaltic wall of the fjord of Stapi we found
ourselves making our way through fibrous turf, over which grew a scanty
vegetation of grass, the residuum of the ancient vegetation of the
swampy peninsula. The vast mass of this combustible, the field of which
as yet is utterly unexplored, would suffice to warm Iceland for a whole
century. This mighty turf pit, measured from the bottom of certain
ravines, is often not less than seventy feet deep, and presents to the
eye the view of successive layers of black burned-up rocky detritus,
separated by thin streaks of porous sandstone.</p>
<p>The grandeur of the spectacle was undoubted, as well as its arid and
deserted air.</p>
<p>As a true nephew of the great Professor Hardwigg, and despite my
preoccupation and doleful fears of what was to come, I observed with
great interest the vast collection of mineralogical curiosities spread
out before me in this vast museum of natural history. Looking back to my
recent studies, I went over in thought the whole geological history of
Iceland.</p>
<p>This extraordinary and curious island must have made its appearance from
out of the great world of waters at a comparatively recent date. Like
the coral islands of the Pacific, it may, for aught we know, be still
rising by slow and imperceptible degrees.</p>
<p>If this really be the case, its origin can be attributed to only one
cause—that of the continued action of subterranean fires.</p>
<p>This was a happy thought.</p>
<p>If so, if this were true, away with the theories of Sir Humphry Davy;
away with the authority of the parchment of Arne Saknussemm; the
wonderful pretensions to discovery on the part of my uncle—and to our
journey!</p>
<p>All must end in smoke.</p>
<p>Charmed with the idea, I began more carefully to look about me. A
serious study of the soil was necessary to negative or confirm my
hypothesis. I took in every item of what I saw, and I began to
comprehend the succession of phenomena which had preceded its formation.</p>
<p>Iceland, being absolutely without sedimentary soil, is composed
exclusively of volcanic tufa; that is to say, of an agglomeration of
stones and of rocks of a porous texture. Long before the existence of
volcanoes, it was composed of a solid body of massive trap rock lifted
bodily and slowly out of the sea, by the action of the centrifugal force
at work in the earth.</p>
<p>The internal fires, however, had not as yet burst their bounds and
flooded the exterior cake of Mother Earth with hot and raging lava.</p>
<p>My readers must excuse this brief and somewhat pedantic geological
lecture. But it is necessary to the complete understanding of what
follows.</p>
<p>At a later period in the world's history, a huge and mighty fissure
must, reasoning by analogy, have been dug diagonally from the southwest
to the northeast of the island, through which by degrees flowed the
volcanic crust. The great and wondrous phenomenon then went on without
violence—the outpouring was enormous, and the seething fused matter,
ejected from the bowels of the earth, spread slowly and peacefully in
the form of vast level plains, or what are called mamelons or mounds.</p>
<p>It was at this epoch that the rocks called feldspars, syenites, and
porphyries appeared.</p>
<p>But as a natural consequence of this overflow, the depth of the island
increased. It can readily be believed what an enormous quantity of
elastic fluids were piled up within its centre, when at last it afforded
no other openings, after the process of cooling the crust had taken
place.</p>
<p>At length a time came when despite the enormous thickness and weight of
the upper crust, the mechanical forces of the combustible gases below
became so great, that they actually upheaved the weighty back and made
for themselves huge and gigantic shafts. Hence the volcanoes which
suddenly arose through the upper crust, and next the craters, which
burst forth at the summit of these new creations.</p>
<p>It will be seen that the first phenomena in connection with the
formation of the island were simply eruptive; to these, however, shortly
succeeded the volcanic phenomena.</p>
<p>Through the newly formed openings, escaped the marvelous mass of
basaltic stones with which the plain we were now crossing was covered.
We were trampling our way over heavy rocks of dark grey color, which,
while cooling, had been moulded into six-sided prisms. In the "back
distance" we could see a number of flattened cones, which formerly were
so many fire-vomiting mouths.</p>
<p>After the basaltic eruption was appeased and set at rest, the volcano,
the force of which increased with that of the extinct craters, gave free
passage to the fiery overflow of lava, and to the mass of cinders and
pumice stone, now scattered over the sides of the mountain, like
disheveled hair on the shoulders of a Bacchante.</p>
<p>Here, in a nutshell, I had the whole history of the phenomena from which
Iceland arose. All take their rise in the fierce action of interior
fires, and to believe that the central mass did not remain in a state of
liquid fire, white hot, was simply and purely madness.</p>
<p>This being satisfactorily proved (Q.E.D.), what insensate folly to
pretend to penetrate into the interior of the mighty earth!</p>
<p>This mental lecture delivered to myself while proceeding on a journey,
did me good. I was quite reassured as to the fate of our enterprise; and
therefore went, like a brave soldier mounting a bristling battery, to
the assault of old Sneffels.</p>
<p>As we advanced, the road became every moment more difficult. The soil
was broken and dangerous. The rocks broke and gave way under our feet,
and we had to be scrupulously careful in order to avoid dangerous and
constant falls.</p>
<p>Hans advanced as calmly as if he had been walking over Salisbury Plain;
sometimes he would disappear behind huge blocks of stone, and we
momentarily lost sight of him. There was a little period of anxiety and
then there was a shrill whistle, just to tell us where to look for him.</p>
<p>Occasionally he would take it into his head to stop to pick up lumps of
rock, and silently pile them up into small heaps, in order that we might
not lose our way on our return.</p>
<p>He had no idea of the journey we were about to undertake.</p>
<p>At all events, the precaution was a good one; though how utterly useless
and unnecessary—but I must not anticipate.</p>
<p>Three hours of terrible fatigue, walking incessantly, had only brought
us to the foot of the great mountain. This will give some notion of what
we had still to undergo.</p>
<p>Suddenly, however, Hans cried a halt—that is, he made signs to that
effect—and a summary kind of breakfast was laid out on the lava before
us. My uncle, who now was simply Professor Hardwigg, was so eager to
advance, that he bolted his food like a greedy clown. This halt for
refreshment was also a halt for repose. The Professor was therefore
compelled to wait the good pleasure of his imperturbable guide, who did
not give the signal for departure for a good hour.</p>
<p>The three Icelanders, who were as taciturn as their comrade, did not say
a word; but went on eating and drinking very quietly and soberly.</p>
<p>From this, our first real stage, we began to ascend the slopes of the
Sneffels volcano. Its magnificent snowy nightcap, as we began to call
it, by an optical delusion very common in mountains, appeared to me to
be close at hand; and yet how many long weary hours must elapse before
we reached its summit. What unheard-of fatigue must we endure!</p>
<p>The stones on the mountain side, held together by no cement of soil,
bound together by no roots or creeping herbs, gave way continually under
our feet, and went rushing below into the plains, like a series of small
avalanches.</p>
<p>In certain places the sides of this stupendous mountain were at an angle
so steep that it was impossible to climb upwards, and we were compelled
to get round these obstacles as best we might.</p>
<p>Those who understand Alpine climbing will comprehend our difficulties.
Often we were obliged to help each other along by means of our climbing
poles.</p>
<p>I must say this for my uncle, that he stuck as close to me as possible.
He never lost sight of me, and on many occasions his arm supplied me
with firm and solid support. He was strong, wiry, and apparently
insensible to fatigue. Another great advantage with him was that he had
the innate sentiment of equilibrium—for he never slipped or failed in
his steps. The Icelanders, though heavily loaded, climbed with the
agility of mountaineers.</p>
<p>Looking up, every now and then, at the height of the great volcano of
Sneffels, it appeared to me wholly impossible to reach to the summit on
that side; at all events, if the angle of inclination did not speedily
change.</p>
<p>Fortunately, after an hour of unheard-of fatigues, and of gymnastic
exercises that would have been trying to an acrobat, we came to a vast
field of ice, which wholly surrounded the bottom of the cone of the
volcano. The natives called it the tablecloth, probably from some such
reason as the dwellers in the Cape of Good Hope call their mountain
Table Mountain, and their roads Table Bay.</p>
<p>Here, to our mutual surprise, we found an actual flight of stone steps,
which wonderfully assisted our ascent. This singular flight of stairs
was, like everything else, volcanic. It had been formed by one of those
torrents of stones cast up by the eruptions, and of which the Icelandic
name is stina. If this singular torrent had not been checked in its
descent by the peculiar shape of the flanks of the mountain, it would
have swept into the sea, and would have formed new islands.</p>
<p>Such as it was, it served us admirably. The abrupt character of the
slopes momentarily increased, but these remarkable stone steps, a little
less difficult than those of the Egyptian pyramids, were the one simple
natural means by which we were enabled to proceed.</p>
<p>About seven in the evening of that day, after having clambered up two
thousand of these rough steps, we found ourselves overlooking a kind of
spur or projection of the mountain—a sort of buttress upon which the
conelike crater, properly so called, leaned for support.</p>
<p>The ocean lay beneath us at a depth of more than three thousand two
hundred feet—a grand and mighty spectacle. We had reached the region of
eternal snows.</p>
<p>The cold was keen, searching and intense. The wind blew with
extraordinary violence. I was utterly exhausted.</p>
<p>My worthy uncle, the Professor, saw clearly that my legs refused further
service, and that, in fact, I was utterly exhausted. Despite his hot and
feverish impatience, he decided, with a sigh, upon a halt. He called the
eider-duck hunter to his side. That worthy, however, shook his head.</p>
<p>"Ofvanfor," was his sole spoken reply.</p>
<p>"It appears," says my uncle with a woebegone look, "that we must go
higher."</p>
<p>He then turned to Hans, and asked him to give some reason for this
decisive response.</p>
<p>"Mistour," replied the guide.</p>
<p>"Ja, mistour—yes, the mistour," cried one of the Icelandic guides in a
terrified tone.</p>
<p>It was the first time he had spoken.</p>
<p>"What does this mysterious word signify?" I anxiously inquired.</p>
<p>"Look," said my uncle.</p>
<p>I looked down upon the plain below, and I saw a vast, a prodigious
volume of pulverized pumice stone, of sand, of dust, rising to the
heavens in the form of a mighty waterspout. It resembled the fearful
phenomenon of a similar character known to the travelers in the desert
of the great Sahara.</p>
<p>The wind was driving it directly towards that side of Sneffels on which
we were perched. This opaque veil standing up between us and the sun
projected a deep shadow on the flanks of the mountain. If this sand
spout broke over us, we must all be infallibly destroyed, crushed in its
fearful embraces. This extraordinary phenomenon, very common when the
wind shakes the glaciers, and sweeps over the arid plains, is in the
Icelandic tongue called "mistour."</p>
<p>"Hastigt, hastigt!" cried our guide.</p>
<p>Now I certainly knew nothing of Danish, but I thoroughly understood that
his gestures were meant to quicken us.</p>
<p>The guide turned rapidly in a direction which would take us to the back
of the crater, all the while ascending slightly.</p>
<p>We followed rapidly, despite our excessive fatigue.</p>
<p>A quarter of an hour later Hans paused to enable us to look back. The
mighty whirlwind of sand was spreading up the slope of the mountain to
the very spot where we had proposed to halt. Huge stones were caught up,
cast into the air, and thrown about as during an eruption. We were
happily a little out of the direction of the wind, and therefore out of
reach of danger. But for the precaution and knowledge of our guide, our
dislocated bodies, our crushed and broken limbs, would have been cast to
the wind, like dust from some unknown meteor.</p>
<p>Hans, however, did not think it prudent to pass the night on the bare
side of the cone. We therefore continued our journey in a zigzag
direction. The fifteen hundred feet which remained to be accomplished
took us at least five hours. The turnings and windings, the
no-thoroughfares, the marches and marches, turned that insignificant
distance into at least three leagues. I never felt such misery, fatigue
and exhaustion in my life. I was ready to faint from hunger and cold.
The rarefied air at the same time painfully acted upon my lungs.</p>
<p>At last, when I thought myself at my last gasp, about eleven at night,
it being in that region quite dark, we reached the summit of Mount
Sneffels! It was in an awful mood of mind, that despite my fatigue,
before I descended into the crater which was to shelter us for the
night, I paused to behold the sun rise at midnight on the very day of
its lowest declension, and enjoyed the spectacle of its ghastly pale
rays cast upon the isle which lay sleeping at our feet!</p>
<p>I no longer wondered at people traveling all the way from England to
Norway to behold this magical and wondrous spectacle.</p>
<hr style="width: 65%;"/>
<h2 id="pgepubid00026"><a id="CHAPTER_13"/>CHAPTER 13</h2>
<h4 id="pgepubid00027">THE SHADOW OF SCARTARIS</h4>
<p>Our supper was eaten with ease and rapidity, after which everybody did
the best he could for himself within the hollow of the crater. The bed
was hard, the shelter unsatisfactory, the situation painful—lying in
the open air, five thousand feet above the level of the sea!</p>
<p>Nevertheless, it has seldom happened to me to sleep so well as I did on
that particular night. I did not even dream. So much for the effects of
what my uncle called "wholesome fatigue."</p>
<p>Next day, when we awoke under the rays of a bright and glorious sun, we
were nearly frozen by the keen air. I left my granite couch and made one
of the party to enjoy a view of the magnificent spectacle which
developed itself, panorama-like, at our feet.</p>
<p>I stood upon the lofty summit of Mount Sneffels' southern peak. Thence I
was able to obtain a view of the greater part of the island. The optical
delusion, common to all lofty heights, raised the shores of the island,
while the central portions appeared depressed. It was by no means too
great a flight of fancy to believe that a giant picture was stretched
out before me. I could see the deep valleys that crossed each other in
every direction. I could see precipices looking like sides of wells,
lakes that seemed to be changed into ponds, ponds that looked like
puddles, and rivers that were transformed into petty brooks. To my right
were glaciers upon glaciers, and multiplied peaks, topped with light
clouds of smoke.</p>
<p>The undulation of these infinite numbers of mountains, whose snowy
summits make them look as if covered by foam, recalled to my remembrance
the surface of a storm-beaten ocean. If I looked towards the west, the
ocean lay before me in all its majestic grandeur, a continuation as it
were, of these fleecy hilltops.</p>
<p>Where the earth ended and the sea began it was impossible for the eye to
distinguish.</p>
<p>I soon felt that strange and mysterious sensation which is awakened in
the mind when looking down from lofty hilltops, and now I was able to do
so without any feeling of nervousness, having fortunately hardened
myself to that kind of sublime contemplation.</p>
<p>I wholly forgot who I was, and where I was. I became intoxicated with a
sense of lofty sublimity, without thought of the abysses into which my
daring was soon about to plunge me. I was presently, however, brought
back to the realities of life by the arrival of the Professor and Hans,
who joined me upon the lofty summit of the peak.</p>
<p>My uncle, turning in a westerly direction, pointed out to me a light
cloud of vapor, a kind of haze, with a faint outline of land rising out
of the waters.</p>
<p>"Greenland!" said he.</p>
<p>"Greenland?" cried I in reply.</p>
<p>"Yes," continued my uncle, who always when explaining anything spoke as
if he were in a professor's chair; "we are not more than thirty-five
leagues distant from that wonderful land. When the great annual breakup
of the ice takes place, white bears come over to Iceland, carried by the
floating masses of ice from the north. This, however, is a matter of
little consequence. We are now on the summit of the great, the
transcendent Sneffels, and here are its two peaks, north and south. Hans
will tell you the name by which the people of Iceland call that on which
we stand."</p>
<p>My uncle turned to the imperturbable guide, who nodded, and spoke as
usual—one word.</p>
<p>"Scartaris."</p>
<p>My uncle looked at me with a proud and triumphant glance.</p>
<p>"A crater," he said, "you hear?"</p>
<p>I did hear, but I was totally unable to make reply.</p>
<p>The crater of Mount Sneffels represented an inverted cone, the gaping
orifice apparently half a mile across; the depth indefinite feet.
Conceive what this hole must have been like when full of flame and
thunder and lightning. The bottom of the funnel-shaped hollow was about
five hundred feet in circumference, by which it will be seen that the
slope from the summit to the bottom was very gradual, and we were
therefore clearly able to get there without much fatigue or difficulty.
Involuntarily, I compared this crater to an enormous loaded cannon; and
the comparison completely terrified me.</p>
<p>"To descend into the interior of a cannon," I thought to myself, "when
perhaps it is loaded, and will go off at the least shock, is the act of
a madman."</p>
<p>But there was no longer any opportunity for me to hesitate. Hans, with a
perfectly calm and indifferent air, took his usual post at the head of
the adventurous little band. I followed without uttering a syllable.</p>
<p>I felt like the lamb led to the slaughter.</p>
<p>In order to render the descent less difficult, Hans took his way down
the interior of the cone in rather a zigzag fashion, making, as the
sailors say, long tracks to the eastward, followed by equally long ones
to the west. It was necessary to walk through the midst of eruptive
rocks, some of which, shaken in their balance, went rolling down with
thundering clamor to the bottom of the abyss. These continual falls
awoke echoes of singular power and effect.</p>
<p>Many portions of the cone consisted of inferior glaciers. Hans, whenever
he met with one of these obstacles, advanced with a great show of
precaution, sounding the soil with his long iron pole in order to
discover fissures and layers of deep soft snow. In many doubtful or
dangerous places, it became necessary for us to be tied together by a
long rope in order that should any one of us be unfortunate enough to
slip, he would be supported by his companions. This connecting link was
doubtless a prudent precaution, but not by any means unattended with
danger.</p>
<p>Nevertheless, and despite all the manifold difficulties of the descent,
along slopes with which our guide was wholly unacquainted, we made
considerable progress without accident. One of our great parcels of rope
slipped from one of the Iceland porters, and rushed by a short cut to
the bottom of the abyss.</p>
<p>By midday we were at the end of our journey. I looked upwards, and saw
only the upper orifice of the cone, which served as a circular frame to
a very small portion of the sky—a portion which seemed to me singularly
beautiful. Should I ever again gaze on that lovely sunlit sky!</p>
<p>The only exception to this extraordinary landscape, was the Peak of
Scartaris, which seemed lost in the great void of the heavens.</p>
<p>The bottom of the crater was composed of three separate shafts, through
which, during periods of eruption, when Sneffels was in action, the
great central furnace sent forth its burning lava and poisonous vapors.
Each of these chimneys or shafts gaped open-mouthed in our path. I kept
as far away from them as possible, not even venturing to take the
faintest peep downwards.</p>
<p>As for the Professor, after a rapid examination of their disposition and
characteristics, he became breathless and panting. He ran from one to
the other like a delighted schoolboy, gesticulating wildly, and uttering
incomprehensible and disjointed phrases in all sorts of languages.</p>
<p>Hans, the guide, and his humbler companions seated themselves on some
piles of lava and looked silently on. They clearly took my uncle for a
lunatic; and—waited the result.</p>
<p>Suddenly the Professor uttered a wild, unearthly cry. At first I
imagined he had lost his footing, and was falling headlong into one of
the yawning gulfs. Nothing of the kind. I saw him, his arms spread out
to their widest extent, his legs stretched apart, standing upright
before an enormous pedestal, high enough and black enough to bear a
gigantic statue of Pluto. His attitude and mien were that of a man
utterly stupefied. But his stupefaction was speedily changed to the
wildest joy.</p>
<p>"Harry! Harry! come here!" he cried; "make haste—wonderful—wonderful!"</p>
<p>Unable to understand what he meant, I turned to obey his commands.
Neither Hans nor the other Icelanders moved a step.</p>
<p>"Look!" said the Professor, in something of the manner of the French
general, pointing out the pyramids to his army.</p>
<p>And fully partaking his stupefaction, if not his joy, I read on the
eastern side of the huge block of stone, the same characters, half eaten
away by the corrosive action of time, the name, to me a thousand times
accursed—</p>

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